Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Gaze through the central doorway into the
nave
at the rows and rows of arches that
seemtorecedeintoaluminousinfinity—theeffectismesmerizing.Thenaveislong,high,
and narrow (200 feet by 60 feet by 35 feet), creating a tunnel effect formed by 10 columns
and arches on each side. Overhead is the church's most famous feature—barrel vaults
(wide arches) built of stones alternating between creamy-white and light-brown. The side
aisles havelowceilings, whereas thenaverisesupbetween them, lined withslender floor-
to-ceiling columns that unite both stories. The interior glows with an even light from the
unstained glass of the clerestory windows. The absence of distractions or bright colors
makes this simple church perfect for meditation.
Mary Magdalene
France has a special affection for Mary Magdalene
(La Madeleine),
and Vézelay is
one of several churches dedicated to her—a rarity in Europe, where most churches
honor Jesus' mother, the Virgin Mary.
TheBiblesaysthatMaryMagdalene,oneofJesus'followers,wasexorcisedof
seven demons (Luke 8:2), witnessed the Crucifixion (Matthew 27:56), and was the
first mortal to see the resurrected Jesus (Mark 16:9-11)—the other disciples didn't
believe her.
Some theologians have fleshed out Mary's reputation by associating her with
biblical passages that don't specifically name her—e.g., the sinner who washed Je-
sus' feet with her hair (Luke 7:36-50), the forgiven adulteress (John 8), or the wo-
man with the alabaster jar who anointed Jesus (Matthew 26:7-13).
In medieval times, legends appeared (especially in France) that, after the Cru-
cifixion, Mary Magdalene fled to southern France, lived in a cave, converted loc-
als, performed miracles, and died in Provence. Renaissance artists portrayed her as
a fanciful blend of Bible and legend: a red-headed, long-haired prostitute who was
rescued by Jesus, symbolizing the sin of those who love too much.
Inrecenttimes,feministshaveclaimedMaryMagdalenewasavictimofmale-
dominated Catholic suppression. Bible scholars cite passages in two ancient (but
noncanonical) gospels that cryptically allude to Mary as Jesus' special “compan-
ion.”
The Da Vinci Code
—a popular if unhistorical novel—seized on this, slather-
ing it with medieval legend and asserting that Mary Magdalene was actually Jesus'
wife who bore him descendants, and that her relics lie not in Vézelay but in a shop-
ping mall in Paris.
