BURGUNDY - France 2014 - page 1321

19:00 July-Aug; Oct-April Fri-Wed 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Thu, also closed
Sun Nov-March; tel. [phone]). The TI provides free Wi-Fi and Internet access.
Getting There: Vézelay is about 45 minutes northwest of Semur-en-Auxois .
Drivers take the Avallon exit of A-6 and follow Vézelay signs for about 20 minutes. Train
travelers go to Sermizelles (via Auxerre or Avallon, 5/day) and take the SNCF shuttle bus
(free with railpass, 3/day, only one works for a day visit) or a taxi from there (6 miles, al-
low €20 one-way, taxi tel. [phone] or mobile [phone]).
Sights in Vézelay
▲ Basilica of Ste. Madeleine
Toaccommodatethegrowingcrowdsofmedievalpilgrims,theabbotsofVézelayenlarged
their original church (1104), then rebuilt it after a disastrous 1120 fire. The building we
see today—one of the largest and best-preserved Romanesque churches anywhere—was
builtinstages:nave(1120-1140),narthex(1132-1145),andchoir(1215).Theconstruction
spanned the century-long transition from the Romanesque style (round barrel arches like
the ancient Romans', thick walls, small windows) to Gothic (pointed arches, flying but-
tresses, high nave, lots of stained glass). Vézelay blends elements of both styles.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 7:00-20:00; Mass Mon-Fri at 18:30, Sat at 12:30 and
18:30, Sun at 11:00.
Information: Tours can be arranged by contacting the volunteer coordinator (tel. 03
86 33 39 50, www.basiliquedevezelay.org ) . Or be your own guide, either by following my
self-guided tour or buying the €5 guidebook as you enter.
Self-Guided Tour: The facade —with one tower missing its original steeple, an-
other that's unfinished, and an inauthentic tympanum—isn't why you came. Step inside.
The narthex, orentrance hall, served several functions. Religiously,it wasaplace to
crossfromtheprofanetothesacred.Practically,itgavesheltertooverflowpilgrimcrowds
(even overnight, if necessary) as they shuffled through one of the three doorways. And
aesthetically, the dark narthex prepares the visitor for the radiant nave.
The tympanum (carved relief) over the central, interior doorway is one of
Romanesque's signature pieces. It shows the risen Christ, ascending to heaven in an
almond-shaped cloud, shooting Holy Ghost rays at his apostles and telling them to preach
the Good News to the ends of the earth. The whole diversity of humanity (appropriate,
considering Vézelay's function as a gathering place) appears beneath: hunters, fishermen,
farmers,pygmies,andmenwithlongears,feathers,anddogheads.Thesignsofthezodiac
arch over the scene.