Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
among the most important of France's canals, linking Paris with the Mediterranean Sea.
The canal is 145 miles long, with 209 locks, and rises over France's continental divide in
Pouilly-en-Auxois, just below Châteauneuf-en-Auxois (where the canal runs underground
for about two miles). Digging began on the canal in 1727 and was not completed until
1832—ironically, just in time for the invention of steam engines on rails, which would
soon eliminate the need for canals.
Back Door Burgundy
This all-day loop links Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, Alise Ste-Reine, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain,
Fontenay, and Semur-en-Auxois (each of these stops is described in detail later in this
chapter). The trip trades vineyards for wheat fields and pastoral landscapes. You'll drive
along the Burgundy canal and visit a Cistercian abbey, medieval villages, and the site of
Gaul's last stand against the Romans. If you're heading to/from Paris, this tour works well
en route or as an overnight stop; accommodations are listed. It requires a car and a good
map(Michelinmaps#320or#519workwell).Stopsthatareboldedaredescribedingreat-
er detail later in this chapter.
Here'showI'dspendthisday:GetoutearlyandjoyridetoMuséoParcAlésiainAlise
Ste-Reine (with at least a photo stop for Châteauneuf-en-Auxois), tour the museum and
battlesite,havelunchafewminutesawayatLaGrangeinFlavigny,drivetoFontenayand
tour the abbey, then stop in Semur-en-Auxois for a stroll on your way home (this plan also
works for those continuing to Paris).
(See “Back Door Burgundy Drive” map,
here
.)
The Drive Begins:
Leave Beaune following signs for
Auxerre
and
Bligny-sur-
Ouche;
from Bligny-sur-Ouche, take D-33 to Pont d'Ouche (following signs to
Pont du
Pany
and
Dijon
),whereyou'llturnleftalongthecanal(D-18),followingsignsto
Château
de Châteauneuf.
In five minutes, you'll see
Châteauneuf-en-Auxois'
castle looming
above. Cross the canal and the freeway for great views of the hill town, even if you're not
visiting it. A right on the small lane at the second farm, one kilometer after leaving D-18,
leads a short distance up to fine views.
