Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ury homes). So it's neither a purely defensive structure (as in the Dordogne) nor a palace
(as in the Loire)—it's a bit of both. The castle was never attacked by foreigners, though
the French Revolution laid waste to a good part of it. After being used as a quarry, it was
purchased by a local family and rebuilt.
The furnishings are surprisingly elaborate given the military look of the exterior.
Enter through the guard's room, and appreciate the weight of a good suit of armor. I could
sleep like a baby in the Captain's Room, surrounded by nine-foot-thick walls. Don't miss
the15th-centuryalarmedsafe.Noticethecolorfuldoorjamb.Thesesamecolorswereused
to paint many buildings (including castles and churches) and remind us that medieval life
went beyond beige and stone. The kitchen will bowl you over; the dining room sports a
15th-century walnut high chair. Look for paintings of the pre-Revolution castle to get a
feel for its original appearance.
Climb the tower (fine views) and see the out-of-place Chinese room, sing chants in
the resonant chapel, and make ripples in the 240-foot-deep well. (Can you spit a bull's-
eye?) Paths outside lead you on a worthwhile walk around the castle. Don't leave without
driving,walking,orpedalingupD-33afewhundredyardstowardSt-Aubin(behindHôtel
Relais du Château) for a romantic view.
▲
Vineyard Loop North of Beaune to Savigny-lès-Beaune
Foraneasyandrewardingspin(bycarorideallybybike)throughwavesofvineyardsthat
smother traditional villages, follow this relatively level 12-mile loop from Beaune (with
stops, allow a half-day by bike or 1.5 hours by car). It laces together three renowned wine
villages—Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Savigny-lès-Beaune—connecting you
with Burgundian nature and village wine culture. Bring water and snacks, as there is pre-
cious little available until the end of this route. Your tour concludes in Savigny-lès-Beau-
ne, where you'll find a café-pizzeria, wine-tastings, a small grocery, and a unique château.
