BURGUNDY - France 2014 - page 1295

My “Vineyard Loop North of Beaune to Savigny-lès-Beaune” is good by car or
bike(manageablehillsanddistances).Ialsocoverthefamous“ Route des Grands Crus,”
farther north of Beaune, connecting Burgundy's most prestigious wine villages.
Avoid the famous wine châteaux (like some of those in Pommard and Meursault),
which I find overpriced and impersonal. Although you can drop in unannounced at most
wineries ( comme un cheveux sur la soupe —“like a hair on the soup”), you'll get better
servicebycallingaheadandlettingthemknowyou'recoming.Rememberthatatfreetast-
ings, you're expected to buy at least a bottle or two, unless you're on a group tour.
Read the section on Burgundian wines ( here ) to brush up. You'll almost certainly see
workerstendingthevines.Inthewinter,plantsareprunedwayback(determiningtheyield
during grape harvest in the fall). Starting in spring, plants are trimmed to get rid of ex-
traneousgrowth,allowingjusttherightamountofsuntoreachthegrapes.Thearrivaldate
of good weather in spring determines the date of harvest (100 days later).
▲▲▲ Vineyard Loop South of Beaune to Château de la Rochepot
(See “La Rochepot Scenic Vineyard Route” map, here . )
Takethispretty,peacefulrouteforthebestapproachtoLaRochepot'sromanticcastle,and
toglidethroughseveralofBurgundy'smostreputedvineyards.Readaheadandnotehours
of wineries and sights along the route (you can always do this loop in reverse). Also, think
aboutpickinguppicnicfixingsasyou'llfindwonderfulpicnicspotsalongtheway.Myfa-
vorite is just before entering Puligny-Montrachet from the north (a block to the right with
terrific vineyard views).
BikerscanfollowthefirstpartofthisroutetoPuligny-Montrachet,alongBurgundy's
best bike path (departs from Beaune's Parc de la Bouzaise and connects the wine villages
of Pommard, Meursault, Volnay, and Puligny-Montrachet for a level, 18-mile loop; allow
agoodhoureach way).The bike route continues southfromPuligny-Montrachet onamix
of small roads and paths all the way to Cluny (eventually signed as la Voie Verte ). For a
niftyone-wayextension,continuefourmilespastPuligny-Montrachettothepleasantwine
town of Santenay, leave the bike trail there, ride two miles on small roads to Chagny, and
then catch a train back to Beaune (trains are 1-2/hour, bikes ride for free). All but power
riders should avoid the hills to La Rochepot.
Self-Guided Tour: DriversleaveBeaune'sringroad,followingsignsfor Chalon-
sur-Saône and Autun (the exit after Auxerre), then follow signs to Pommard. Cyclists take
the lovely vineyard bike path by leaving the ring road toward Auxerre and Bligny-sur-
Ouche, and turning left at the signal after Lycée Viticole de Beaune—look for bike route
signs.