Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The vine-covered landscape is crisscrossed with narrow lanes and stubby stone walls
(good for picnics, but no shade) and provides memorable early-morning and sunset views.
Wander among the enclosures, noticing the rocky soil (wine grapes need to struggle). The
highest areas of the hills above you grow grapes that end up in wines labeled
Haute Côte
de Beaune,
and are cheaper and generally less intense than those made from the grapes
in front of you. As you wander about, keep in mind that subtle differences of soil and
drainage between adjacent plots of land can be enough to create very different-tasting
wines—from grapes grown only feet apart.
Vive la différence.
Ramparts Walk (Promenade des Remparts)
(See “Beaune” map,
here
.)
YoucanwanderalongsectionsofthemedievalwallsthatprotectedBeaunefrombadguys.
Much of the way is a paved lane used for parking, storage, and access to homes built in-
to the wall, but you'll still get a feel for the ramparts' size and see vestiges of defensive
towers.FindthepathjustinsidetheringroadthatstretchescounterclockwisefromAvenue
de la République to Rue de Lorraine (see map on
here
). You can enter or exit at any cross
street (free, always open).
Countless opportunities exist for you to learn the finer points of Burgundy's wines. Many
shopsandwineriesofferinformalandinformativetastings(withtheexpectationthatyou'll
buy something)—though the limits on our ability to bring wines back to North America
can lead to tricky dynamics, particularly at smaller places. You can taste directly at the
domaine
(winery) or at a
caveau
representing a variety of wineries (I list several options
for both). To sample older vintages you'll have to visit a winery because
caveaux
usually
don't stock wines older than a few years. When visiting a cellar, don't mind the mossy
ceilings. Many cellars have spent centuries growing this “angel's hair”—the result of hu-
midity created by the evaporation of the wines stored there. For tips on wine-tasting, see
Winemakers are busy people and, naturally, they prefer to spend their time turning
folks on to their wines who can buy enough to make it worth their while—and in most
cases, that's not you (as nice as you are). They hope you'll like their wines, buy several
bottles or a dozen, and ask for them at your shop back home. Most places now charge an
entry fee, allowing you to taste a variety of wines (with less expectation that you'll buy).
If you're not serious about buying at least a few bottles, look for places that charge for
tastings.
