Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
St. Hugue Ward:
In the 17th century, this smaller ward was established for wealthy
patients(whocouldaffordprivatehealthinsurance).Theyweremorelikelytosurvive,and
thedecordisplaysthemesofhope,ratherthanresignation:TheseriesofBaroquepaintings
liningthewallsshowsthebiblicalmiraclesthatJesusperformed.Asthewealthywouldlie
intheirbeds,they'dstareattheceiling—apaintingwiththebottomofanangel'sfoot,sur-
rounded by the sick waiting to be healed by Jesus in his scarlet robe. An exhibit describes
the hospital's gradual transition to modern practices.
St. Nicolas Room:
Originally divided into smaller rooms—one used for “surgery”
(a.k.a.bloodlettingandamputation),theotherasanextensionofthekitchenthatyou'llsee
next—thisroomnowholdsamodelofthesteeproofsupportandmoretoolsofthedoctor-
ingtrade(amputationsaws,pansforbloodletting,andsoon).Theglasspanelinthefloor's
center shows the stream running below; the hole provided a primitive but convenient dis-
posal system after dinner or surgery. Living downstream from the hospital was a bad idea.
Notice the display case showing the
Vente aux Enchères des Hospices de Beaune
. Oper-
ation of the hospice was primarily funded through auctioning its great wines (made from
land donated by grateful patients over the years). Today, the auction of Hospices de Beau-
ne wines is an internationally followed event, and gives the first indication of prices for
thepreviousyear'swines.Proceedsfromtheauctionstillsupportthe“modern”hospitalin
Beaune.
Kitchen:
The kitchen display shows a 16th-century rotisserie. When fully wound,
the cute robotwouldcrank away,andthe spit wouldspinslowly for45minutes. The 19th-
century stove provided running hot water, which spewed from the beaks of swans. A five-
minute, French-only sound-and-light show runs every 15 minutes.
Pharmacy:
The nuns grew herbs out back, and strange and wondrous concoctions
were mixed, cooked, and then stored in pottery jars. The biggest jar (by the window in the
second room) was for
theriaca
(“panacea,” or cure-all). The most commonly used medi-
cine back then, it was a syrup of herbs, wine, and opium.
St. Louis Ward:
A maternity ward until 1969, this room is lined with fine 16th-
and 17th-century tapestries illustrating mostly Old Testament stories. Dukes traveled with
tapestries to cozy up the humble places they stayed in while on the road. The 16th-cen-
tury pieces have better colors but inferior perspective. (The most precious 15th-century
tapestries are displayed in the next room, where everyone is enthralled by the great Van
der Weyden painting.)
Roger van der Weyden's
Last Judgment:
This exquisite painting, the treasure of
the Hôtel Dieu, was commissioned by Rolin in 1450 for the altar of the Paupers' Ward.
He spared no cost, hiring the leading Flemish artist of his time. The entire altarpiece sur-
vives. The back side (on right wall) was sliced off so everything could be viewed at the
same time. The painting is full of symbolism. Christ presides over Judgment Day. The lily
