Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
amongafamily'schildrenwhenparentsdied.Inmanycasesafarmerownsjustafewrows
in a vineyard and pieces together enough parcels to make a go of it.
Every village produces its own distinctive wine, from Chablis to Meursault to
Chassagne-Montrachet. Road maps read like fine-wine lists. If the wine village has a hy-
phenated name, the latter half of its name usually comes from the town's most important
vineyard (such as Gevrey-Chambertin, Aloxe-Corton, and Vosne-Romanée). Look for
Dégustation Gratuite
(free tasting) signs, and prepare for serious wine-tasting—and steep
prices, if you're not careful. For a more easygoing tasting experience, head for the hills:
The less prestigious Hautes-Côtes (upper slopes) produce some terrific, inexpensive, and
overlooked wines. The least expensive (but often worthwhile) wines are Bourgogne and
Passetoutgrain (both red) and whites from the Mâcon and Chalon areas (St-Véran whites
are also a good value). If you like rosé, try Marsannay, considered one of France's best.
And
les famous
Pouilly-Fuissé grapes are grown near the city of Mâcon. For tips on tast-
You'll feel comfortable right away in this prosperous, popular, and perfectly French little
winecapital, wherelifecentersontheproductionandconsumptionoftheprestigiousCôte
d'Or wines.
Côte d'Or
means “Gold Coast,” (from when the sea covered the valley in the
Jurassic era) and the “coast” here is a spectacle to enjoy in late October as the leaves turn.
Medieval monks and powerful dukes of Burgundy laid the groundwork that estab-
lished this town's prosperity. The monks cultivated wine and cheese, and the dukes cultiv-
ated wealth. A ring road (with a bike path) follows the foundations of the medieval walls,
andparking lots just outside keep most traffic fromseeping into the historic center.Oneof
theworld'smostimportantwineauctionstakesplacehereeveryyearonthethirdweekend
of November.
Beaune is compact (pop. 25,000), with a handful of interesting monuments and vineyards
knocking at its door. Limit your Beaune ramblings to the town center, lassoed within its
medieval walls and circled by a one-way ring road, and leave time to stroll into the vine-
yards.Allroadsandactivities convergeonthetown'stwosquares,Place Carnot andPlace
de la Halle. Beaune is quiet on Sundays and Monday mornings. The city's monuments are
beautifully lit at night, making Beaune ideal for a post-dinner stroll.
