Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
L'Impossible, housed in a beautiful farmhouse a 10-20-minute walk from most recom-
mended hotels, is the place to go for refined organic cuisine with an Italian bias. Bring
your food allergies: This place offers gluten-free, lactose-free, and fat-free (well, maybe
not that) dishes without sacrificing flavor. Even if eating healthfully doesn't boost your
boots, you'll appreciate the exquisite meals and attention to detail. Papa (who hails from
Tuscany) cooks, while Mama and daughter Martha serve (€18-28 plats, €30-48 menus,
daily,5-minutewalkfromAiguilleduMidiliftonRoutedesPélerins,tel.0450532036).
Après Hike: The Bistro des Sports is where locals hang their ice picks after a hard
day in the mountains. Drinks are cheap, the crowd is loud, and the ambience works (see
“Budget Meals,” earlier). Le Pub is a good spot to raise a glass with the British crowd
(225 Rue du Docteur Paccard, tel. 04 50 55 92 88).
View Cafés: High above Chamonix, many cafés excel in outdoor views, but here are
several that I think stand above the rest. La Bergerie, at Planpraz station on Le Brévent,
is hard to beat and offers surprisingly affordable drinks, snacks, and meals, as does the
Refuge-Plan de l'Aiguille belowMontBlanc(15-minutewalkfromPlandel'Aiguillelift
station,describedearlierunder“SleepinginChamonix”).BackdowninChamonix,facing
theTIablockofftheaction-packed pedestrian core,scenic Le Chamonix Café sitsbelow
Chamonix's pretty little church and has terrific views of both mountain ranges (daily until
20:00,Placedel'Eglise). Café La Terrasse hasacoollocation(literally)abovetherushof
the Arve River and is well-positioned for Mont Blanc views (daily until late, across from
the casino on Place Balmat). Café Extreme is a relaxed place for cheap food and lovely
views of the main square and mountains (daily, 31 Place du Joseph Balmat, tel. 04 50 21
99 45).
Chamonix Connections
Bus and train service to Chamonix is surprisingly good (information desks for both at the
trainstation).SometrainroutespassthroughSwitzerlandtoreachChamonix(suchasfrom
Paris and Colmar) and require additional tickets if you have a France-only railpass. You
can avoid passing through Switzerland if you plan ahead, but it usually takes longer, and
you miss some great scenery. The route to Colmar (via Bern and Basel) is beautiful and
costs roughly €60 for the Swiss segment. You'll get a fun taste of Switzerland's charms
and, though you'll make many transfers en route, they all work like a Swiss clock.
From Chamonix by Train to: Annecy (11/day, 2.5 hours, change in St-Gervais),
Beaune and Dijon (7/day, 6-7 hours, change in St-Gervais and Lyon, some require addi-
tional changes), Nice (4/day, 10 hours, change in St-Gervais and Lyon), Arles (5/day, 7-8
hours, change in St-Gervais and Lyon), Paris ' Gare de Lyon (7/day, more in summer and
winter,5.5-7hours,somechangeinSwitzerland), Colmar (hourly,6hoursviaSwitzerland
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