The French Alps - France 2014 - page 1250

there (a great value). Reserve in advance (a few days is generally enough), then pack a
small bagforamemorable night among newinternational friends. The Office of the High
Mountain in Chamonix can explain your options (see here ) .
$ Refuge-Hôtel du Montenvers, Chamonix's oldest refuge, delivers an old world
experience at the Montenvers train stop. It was built in 1880 as a climbing base for moun-
tain guides before the train went there, so materials had to be gathered from nearby. The
five simple wood-cozy rooms, top-floor dorm room (35 beds), and dining room feel as
though they haven't been modified since then (open July-Aug only, half-pension in a
double room-€62/person, in a dorm room-€44/person, good showers down the hall for all,
tel. [phone]). For directions, see “Hike #1” on here .
$ Refuge-Plan de l'Aiguille is my favorite refuge experience near Chamonix. It's
a small, welcoming, easy-to-reach refuge a 15-minute walk below the Plan de l'Aiguille
lift, right on the trail between the Aiguille du Midi and Montenvers-Mer de Glace. It
has a warm interior and a killer view café. The cook and guardian Claude is a retired
pastry chef, so the meals are good and the desserts heavenly (open May-Oct only, €19/
bed, half-pension-€45/person, towel-€2, cash only, mobile [phone], claudi-
[e-mail] ).
$ Refuge-Hôtel La Flégère hangs on the edge right at the La Flégère lift station.
It's simple and big, but ideally located for hiking to Lac Blanc or Planpraz (open mid-
June-mid-Sept only, 4 private rooms with 5 beds, big dorm room with 30 beds, required
half-pension-€52/person, fireplace, cool bar-café, mobile [phone], bel-
[e-mail] ). For directions, see “Hike #2” on here .
Eating in Chamonix
You have two basic dining options in Chamonix—cozy, traditional savoyarde restaurants
serving fondue, raclette, and the like, or big cafés in central locations serving a wide vari-
etyofdishes(includingregionalspecialties)thatallowyoutowatchriversofhikersreturn
fromafulldayinthemountains.Pricesareroughlythesame.Ifit'sabeautifulday,takean
outdoor table at a central café (see the “View Cafés” section); if you're dining inside, go
local and consider a place in or near the town center (most are closed between lunch and
dinner). The regional cuisine is hearty and filling, as restaurants seek to satisfy ravenous
hikers.
In the Town Center
(See “Chamonix Town” map, here .)