Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Américain.
Those guys are nuts. The smooth snow field to the left of Dru's spire (Les
Grands Montets) is the top of Chamonix's most challenging ski run, with a vertical drop
of about 6,500 feet (down the opposite side).
The glacier's
ice caves
are beneath you. Take the free, small gondola down and pre-
pare to walk about 430 steps each way. Several years ago, it was 280 steps. This glacier is
beating a hasty retreat—as you walk down you'll pass signs that bring this point home by
showing the level of the glacier over the years. The ice cave is actually a long tunnel dug
about 75 yards into the glacier. The blue-green hue of the cave is hypnotizing, and you'll
find an informative series of panels describing the digging of the cave inside. This is also
whereskiersendtheirrunfromtheAiguilleduMidi(youmightrecognizesomeoneifyou
rode that lift earlier). The path to the right (as you face the glacier) leads to a fine view
café and a reconstruction of a crystal cave.
The
Refuge-Hôtel du Montenvers,
a few minutes' walk toward Chamonix, offers a
full-servicerestaurant,viewtables(fairprices,limitedselection),andawarminterior(you
can even bunk here—see “Sleeping in Chamonix,” later). The five-room museum upstairs
describesthehistoryoftheMontenverstrain(noEnglishbutgoodexhibits).Thehotelwas
built in 1880, when “tourists” arrived on foot or by mule.
The three-hour trail to
Plan de l'Aiguille
(see
here
for a description) begins across
fromthehotel.Walkabovethetwostonebuildingsandfollowthetrailasitrisesjustabove
the Mer de Glace valley (follow
sentier gauche
signs toward
Signal Montenvers
). For ter-
rific views, hike toward Plan de l'Aiguille—even just a short distance. The views get bet-
ter fast, and the higher you climb, the better they get as the peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges
come into sight behind you. Bring a picnic.
A
Glaciorium
lies fifty yards behind the hotel along the main walkway. It houses a
small but worthwhile exhibit on glaciers of the world with dioramas, interactive displays,
and terrific images that explain the life of a glacier and where they are headed (free, daily
9:00-16:30).
ThoughAiguilleduMidigivesamorespectacularride,theLeBréventandLaFlégèrelifts
offer worthwhile hiking and viewing options, with unobstructed panoramas across to the
Mont Blanc range and fewer crowds. The Le Brévent (luh bray-vahn) lift is in Chamonix;
the La Flégère (lah flay-zhair) lift is in nearby Les Praz (lay prah). The lifts are connected
by a scenic hike, or by bus along the valley floor (free with Chamonix Guest Card, see
Hike #2 in the next section); both have sensational view cafés. Both lifts are closed from
late April to mid-June and around October (reopening when ski season starts, usually in
November).
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