THE FRENCH RIVIERA - France 2014 - page 1184

Getting There: It's about a 20-minute walk from the TI. After turning right out of
theTI,takeyourfirstrightandthenaquicklefttogetontoAvenueHenriIsnard.Takethis
street all the way to the traffic circle (notice the colorful tiled roof of the Pénitents Blancs
Chapel to your left). At the intersection, turn right across the one-lane bridge on Avenue
Henri Matisse, following signs to St-Jeannet.
Sleeping in Vence
These accommodations may close their reception desks between 12:00 and 16:00. Make
arrangements in advance if you plan to arrive during this time.
$$$ La Maison du Frêne is a modern, art-packed B&B with four sumptuous and
spacious suites centrally located behind the TI. Energetic Thierry, who was born in Vence,
andkindGuycombinetheirpassionsforcontemporaryartandhostingtravelersinthislov-
ingly restored manor house. This place is worth the splurge (Db-€150-185, higher price is
forpeaktimes,includesgoodbreakfast,kidssleepfree,in-roomcoffee/teaservice,fridges,
air-con, Wi-Fi; next to the Château de Villeneuve at 1 Place du Frêne—turn right out of
the TI, then right again, then left; tel. [phone], www.lamaisondufrene.com , con-
[e-mail] ).
$$ Auberge des Seigneurs feelsmedieval.It'safunky,dark-woodedplaceina17th-
century building with six simple but spacious rooms over a restaurant in a good location.
It can be hard to find the staff when reception closes at midday and all day Sun-Mon
(when the restaurant isn't open)—just ring the bell (small Db in back-€80, Db-€90, Wi-
Fi in lobby only, includes €10 parking voucher, 1 Rue du Dr. Binet, tel. [phone],
www.auberge-seigneurs.com , [e-mail] ).
Eating in Vence
Tempting outdoor eateries litter the old town. Lights embedded in the cobbles illuminate
the way after dark. The first three restaurants serve tasty Provençal cuisine in the center of
the old town and are my top choices.
La Cassolette, at 10 Place du Clemenceau, is an intimate place with reasonable
prices and a romantic terrace across from the floodlit church (€32 menus, €14-17 plats ,
closed Tue-Wed except July-Aug, tel. [phone], www.restaurant-lacassolette-
vence.com ) .
Nearby, La Litote islaudedbylocalsasagoodvalue,withoutdoortablesonaquiet,
hidden square (€25-30 two- and three-course meals, closed Mon-Tue and Sun evening, 7
Rue de l'Evêché, tel. [phone]).