Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
You could take a pricey taxi between the two Ezes or from Eze-le-Village to La Tur-
bie (allow €25 one-way, mobile 06 09 84 17 84).
▲▲▲ La Trophée des Alpes (in La Turbie)
High above Monaco, on the Grande (High) Corniche in the overlooked village of La Tur-
bie, lies one of this region's most evocative historical sights (with dramatic views over the
entire country of Monaco as a bonus). Rising well above all other buildings, this massive
Roman monument commemorates Augustus Caesar's conquest of the Alps and its 44 hos-
tile tribes. It's exciting to think that, in a way, La Trophée des Alpes celebrates a victory
that kicked off the Pax Romana—joining Gaul and Germania, freeing up the main artery
of the Roman Empire, and linking Spain and Italy. (It's depressing to think that it's closed
on Mondays, if that's your only chance to visit.)
You'll enter through a small park that offers grand views over Monaco and allows
you to appreciate the remarkable setting selected by the Romans for this monument. Walk
around and notice how the Romans built a fine, quarried-stone exterior, filled in with
rubble and coarse concrete. Flanked by the vanquished in chains, the towering inscription
tells the story: It was erected “by the senate and the people to honor the emperor.” The
monumentlaterbecameaquarrybeforebeingrestoredinthe1930sand1940swithmoney
from the Tuck family of New Hampshire.
The one-room museum shows a reconstruction and translation of the dramatic in-
scription,whichlistsallthefeistyalpinetribesthatputupsuchafight.Recentlyupgraded,
ithasgoodEnglishexplanations andmodernexhibits(anaudioguideisavailable). Escorts
from the museum take people up to the monument, but they're not worth waiting for.
Cost and Hours: €5.50, audioguide-€3.50, Tue-Sun mid-May-mid-Sept 9:30-13:00
& 14:30-18:30, off-season 10:00-13:00 & 14:30-17:00, closed Mon year-round, tel. 04 93
41 20 84.
La Turbie: The sweet old village of La Turbie sees almost no tourists, but it has
plenty of cafés and restaurants. To stroll the old village, park in the main lot on Place
Neuve (follow Monaco signs one block from the main road to find it), then walk behind
the post office and find brick footpaths—they lead through a village with nary a shop. To
eat very well, find La Terrasse, the Riviera's most welcoming restaurant (I'm not kid-
ding—freecallsareencouragedfromtheirphoneanywhere,anytime;there'sacomputerat
your disposal; and the Wi-Fi is complimentary). Tables gather under sunshades and every-
oneseemstobeonafirst-namebasis.LetHelen,Jacques,andAnnettetemptyoutoreturn
for dinner at sunset—book ahead for a table with a view (€8-12 salads, great €14 plats du
jour, €20 three-course menu includes glass of wine, steak tartare is a specialty, daily, near
the post office at the main parking lot, 17 Place Neuve, tel. 04 93 41 21 84).
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