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#80 from the harbor). Don't let the streetside appearance deter you: Serious owners Eric
and Laurence offer 15 bright and comfortable rooms, along with a large pool, a pleas-
ant garden, a roomy lounge area (with board games), and a breakfast terrace with partial
views of Cap Ferrat and the sea. Choose between rooms in the main building or below on
the garden patio. Parking and Wi-Fi are free, the beds are firm, all rooms are air-condi-
tioned, and the big breakfast features homemade crêpes. Light lunches, salads, and snacks
are available during the day (Db-€128-148, Tb-€140-160, Qb-€185-205, breakfast-€12,
laundry-€10/load, 8 Boulevard de la Corne d'Or, Moyenne Corniche/N-7, tel. 04 93 76 67
40, www.fianceedupirate.com , info@fianceedupirate.com ) .
$ Hôtel de la Darse** is a shy, unassuming little hotel burrowed in the shadow of
itshighbrowneighbors.Thislow-profilealternativeonthewateratVillefranche-sur-Mer's
old port is a great budget option. It's less central—figure 10 minutes of level walking to
the harbor, but a steep 15-minute walk up to the main road and buses. The rooms facing
the sea are worth the extra few euros for their million-dollar-view balconies (view Db-
€95, view Tb-€120, Qb-€120, almost all with air-con and some noise on weekend nights,
book well ahead for these). Rooms on the quieter garden side are sharp and have air-con,
but no view (Sb-€71, Db-€79, extra bed-€14, breakfast-€9, no elevator; from TI walk or
drivedownAvenueGénéraldeGaulle;walkersshouldturnleftonAlléeduColonelDuval
into the Jardins de Narvik and follow steps to bottom, then turn right at the old Port de
la Darse; parking usually available nearby, tel. 04 93 01 72 54, www.hoteldeladarse.com ,
info@hoteldeladarse.com ).
Eating in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Comparison-shopping is half the fun of dining in Villefranche-sur-Mer. Make an event
out of a pre-dinner stroll through the old city. Check what looks good on the lively Place
AméliePollonnais(nexttoHôtelWelcome),wherethewholevillageseemstoconvergeat
night; saunter the string of pricey candlelit places lining the waterfront; and consider the
smaller,wallet-friendlier eateries embedded in the old city'swalking streets. Arm yourself
with a gelato from any ice-cream shop and enjoy a floodlit, post-dinner stroll along the
sea.
Le Cosmo Bistrot/Brasserie takes center stage on Place Amélie Pollonnais with a
greatsetting—afewtableshaveviewstotheharborandtotheChapelofSt.Pierre'sfacade
(after some wine, the Cocteau art really pops). This tight but friendly place offers well-
presented, tasty meals with goodwines (Ilove their redBandol). Askforthe daily sugges-
tionsandconsiderthe€13 omeletteniçoise (€16finesaladsandpastas,€16-29 plats ,daily,
Place Amélie Pollonnais, tel. 04 93 01 84 05, www.restaurant-lecosmo.fr ) .
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