Travel Reference
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II and his family in 1918. Notice the Jesus icon to the right of the Royal Door. According
to a priest here, as worshippers meditate, staring deep into the eyes of Jesus, they enter
a lake where they find their soul. Surrounded by incense, chanting, and your entire com-
munity...it could happen. Farther to the right, the icon of the unhappy-looking Virgin and
Child is decorated with semiprecious stones from the Ural Mountains. Artists worked a
triangle into each iconic face—symbolic of the Trinity.
Other Nice Museums
Both of these museums are acceptable rainy-day options, and free to enter.
Archaeological Museum (Musée Archéologique)
This museum displays various objects from the Romans' occupation of this region. It's
convenient—just below the Matisse Museum—but has little of interest to anyone but an-
cient Rome aficionados. You also get access to the Roman bath ruins...which are, sadly,
overgrown with weeds.
Cost and Hours: Free, very limited information in English, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00,
closed Tue, near Matisse Museum at 160 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, tel. 04 93 81 59
57).
Masséna Museum (Musée Masséna)
Like Nice's main square, this museum was named in honor of Jean-André Masséna, a
highly regarded commander during France's Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars. The
beachfront mansion is worth a gander for its lavish decor and lovely gardens alone (pick
up your free ticket at the boutique just outside; no English information available).
Cost and Hours: Free, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue, last entry 30 minutes be-
fore closing, 35 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 04 93 91 19 10, www.massena-nice.org .
Visiting the Museum: There are three levels. The elaborate reception rooms on the
ground floor host occasional exhibits and give the best feeling for aristocratic Nice at the
turn of the 19th century (find Masséna's portrait to the right after entering). The first floor
up, offering a folk-museum-like look at Nice through the years, deserves most of your
time. Moving counterclockwise around the floor, you'll find Napoleonic paraphernalia,
Josephine's impressive cape and tiara, and Napoleon's vest (I'd look good in it). Next,
antique posters promote vacations in Nice—look for the model and photos of the long-
gone La Jetée Promenade and its casino, Nice's first. You'll see paintings of the Russian
nobility who appreciated Nice's climate, images of the city before its river was covered
over by Place Masséna, and paintings honoring Italian patriot and Nice favorite Giuseppe
Garibaldi. The top-floor painting gallery is devoted to the Riviera before World War II,
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