PROVENCE - France 2014 - page 1051

completely abandoned in 1910, and today has a ghost town-like feel (it once housed 200
people). The inhabited village below has a rugged character and shows little inclination
for boutiques and smart hotels. It's ideal for those looking to perish in Provence. It's 20
minutes straight up to the ruined castle , but the Luberon views justify the effort. Walk
under the central arch of the building across from Le Petit Café and climb. After walking
under the arch, look back to notice the handsome building it supports. At the fork,youcan
go either way (though the path to the right is easier). Find the little church terrace. From
here, tiled rooftops paint a delightful picture with the grand panorama; the flat plain of the
Rhônedeltaisvisibleofftotheleft.There'sbeenachurchonthissitefor1,000years—the
colorful Notre-Dame d'Alidon church (1588) is generally open 9:30-18:30 (depending
on availability of village volunteers, who are eager to answer questions).
Eating and Sleeping in Oppède-le-Vieux: Once you're back down, consider a meal
withviewsofthecastleruinsat Petit Café, wherefriendlyJean-Marieisincharge(€12-15
salads, €25-lunch menu , €40-dinner menu , closed Tue-Wed eves, all day Thu, and mid-
Dec-April). $$ Petit Café also offers simple but comfy rooms, all with nice views (Db-
€65-75, big Db-€95, extra bed-€15, includes breakfast, air-con, €10-indoor Jacuzzi and
sauna, rooftop terrace, tel. [phone], www.petitcafe.fr ) .