Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Due south of Roussillon, just below D-900, this delicate three-arched bridge survives as
a testimony to Roman engineers—and to the importance of this rural area 2,000 years
ago. It's the only surviving bridge on what was the main road from northern Italy to
Provence—the primary route used by Roman armies. The 215-foot-long Roman bridge
was under construction from 27
B.C.
to
A.D.
14. Mortar had not yet been invented, so (as
with Pont du Gard) stones were carefully set in place. Amazingly, the bridge survives
today, having outlived Roman marches, hundreds of floods, and decades of automobile
traffic. A new bridge finally rerouted traffic from this beautiful structure in 2005.
Lacoste
Little Lacoste slumbers across the valley from Bonnieux in the shadow of its looming
castle. Climb through this photogenic village of arches and stone paths, passing American
art students (from the Savannah College of Art and Design) showing their work. The view
of Bonnieux from the base of Lacoste's castle is as good as it gets. The Marquis de Sade
(1740-1814) lived in this
castle
for more than 30 years. Author of dirty novels, he was
notorious for hosting orgies behind these walls, and for kidnapping peasants for scandal-
ous purposes. He was eventually arrested and imprisoned for 30 years, and thanks to him,
we have a word to describe his favorite hobby—sadism. Today, fashion designer Pierre
Cardin lives in the lower part of the castle, having spent a fortune shoring up the protect-
ive walls and sponsoring a high-priced summer opera series. Some locals are critical of
Cardin, claiming that he is buying up the town to create his own “faux-Provence.” Could
“Cardism” be next?
Eating in Lacoste:
If it's time for lunch, find the
Bar/Restaurant de France
's out-
door tables overlooking Bonnieux and savor the view (inexpensive, good omelets, daily,
lunch only off-season, tel. 04 90 75 82 25).
Ménerbes
Ménerbes, now (in)famous as the village that drew author Peter Mayle's attention to this
region, is also noteworthy for its truffle center and a smattering of scenic buildings. The
town lies 10 minutes east of Lacoste. To explore Ménerbes, stash your car, then follow
Eglise
signs to the end of the village. At the end of Rue Corneille you'll pass the
citad-
el,
built in 1584 (after the Protestants of Ménerbes were defeated in the religious wars of
1577)—andnevertested.Furtheron,findtheheavyRomanesquechurch(closedandunder
renovation) and
graveyard
(good views in all directions). Nearby, foodies can duck into
the snazzy
Maison de la Truffe et du Vin,
which offers “truffle discovery workshops”
(call for schedule, tel. 04 90 72 38 37,
www.vin-truffe-luberon.com
), a fine little
jardin à
lafrançaise
(moregreatviews),andacutetastingroomservingLuberonwines.All180of
