Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Le Col de la Chaîne Mountain Pass
Get out of your car at the pass (about 1,500 feet) and enjoy the breezy views. Wander
about.Thepeaksinthedistance—thrustinguplikethebackofastegosaurusorabadhair-
cut (you decide)—are the Dentelles de Montmirail, a small range running just nine miles
basically north to south and reaching 2,400 feet in elevation. This region's land is con-
stantly shifting. Those rocky tops were the result of a gradual uplifting of the land, then
were blown bald by the angry mistral wind. Below, pine and oak trees mix with the shrub
Scotch broom, which blooms brilliant yellow in May and June. You may see rich yellow-
to-reddish patches of land—the result of deposits of ochre located deep below. The village
belowthepeaksisSuzette(you'llbetheresoon).Theyellow-signedhiking-onlytrailleads
to the castle-topped village of Le Barroux (3.5 miles, mostly downhill).
Now turn around and face Mont Ventoux. Are there clouds on the horizon? You're
looking into the eyes of the Alps (behind Ventoux), and those “foothills” help keep
Provence sunny.
• Time to push on. You'll pass yellow trail signs along this drive. (The Dentelles provide
fertile ground for walking trails.) With the medieval castle of Le Barroux topping the ho-
rizon in the distance (off to the left), drive on to little...
Suzette
Tiny Suzette floats on its hilltop, with a small 12th-century chapel, one café, a handful of
residents, and the gaggle of houses where they live. Park in Suzette's lot, below, then find
thebigorientationboardabovethelot(Romeis620kilometers—385miles—away).Look
out to the broad shoulders of Mont Ventoux. At 6,000 feet, it always seems to have some
clouds hanging around. If it's clear, the top looks like it's snow-covered; if you drive up
there, you'll see it's actually white stone. If it's very cloudy, the mountain takes on a dark,
foreboding appearance.
Look to the village. A sign asks you to
Respectez son Calme
(respect its peace). Suz-
ette'shomesoncelivedintheshadowofanimposingcastle,destroyedduringthereligious
wars of the mid-1500s. The recommended
Les Coquelicots
café makes a good lunch or
drink stop (described on
here
). Good picnic tables lie just past Suzette on our route. Back
across the road from the orientation table is a tasting room for
Château Redortier
wines
(unreliable hours, English brochure and well-explained wine list provided).
• Continue from Suzette in the direction of Beaumes de Venise. You'll drop down into the
lush little village of La Fare. La Fare's best wine-tasting opportunity is back on our route
just after leaving the village, at...