PROVENCE - France 2014 - page 1021

there's an outdoor pool and Jacuzzi next door (standard Db-€75, bigger Db with king-
size bed and bath-€105, Tb-€135, extra person-€15, Cité Médiévale, tel. [phone],
www.hotellafete-provence.com , [e-mail] ) . Their apartments (€180)
sleep up to six people, and come with a kitchenette and sitting area.
$$ Hôtel Burrhus** is part art gallery, part simple, funky hotel—and the best value
in the lower town. It's a central, laid-back, go-with-the-flow place, with a broad terrace
over the raucous Place Montfort (the double-paned windows are effective, but for maxim-
umquiet,requestabackroom).Itsfloorplanwillconfoundeventheablestnavigator(Db-
€63-78,largerDb-€86-95,Qbapartment-€145,extrabed-€15,air-con,guestcomputerand
Wi-Fi, 1 Place Montfort, tel. [phone], www.burrhus.com , [e-mail] ) .
Eating in Vaison la Romaine
Vaison la Romaine offers a handful of excellent places—arrive by 19:30 or reserve ahead,
particularly on weekends. And while you can eat very well on a moderate budget in Vais-
on, it's well worth venturing to nearby Côtes du Rhône villages to eat (see “Sleeping and
Eating near Vaison la Romaine” on here ) . Wherever you dine, begin with a fresh glass of
Muscat from the nearby village of Beaumes de Venise.
La Bartavelle is a good place to savor traditional French cuisine in the lower town,
withatourist-friendly mix-and-match choiceoflocaloptions.The€29 menu getsyoufour
courses; the €22 menu gives you access to all the top-end selections but fewer courses. Be
sure to reserve ahead (closed Mon, Fri at lunch, and off-season on Sun; small terrace out-
side, air-con interior, 12 Place de Sus Auze, tel. [phone], www.restaurant-bartav-
elle.fr ).
Le Brin d'Olivier isthemostromanticplaceIlist,withsoftlighting,hushedconver-
sations, earth tones, and a semi-gastronomic range of food that celebrates Provence (no-
choice €29 and €36 menus, €22-26 à la carte plats , closed Wed except July-Aug, 4 Rue du
Ventoux, tel. [phone], www.restaurant-lebrindolivier.com , owner Patrick speaks a
little English).
La Lyriste, named for the loudest “singing” cigale (cicada), puts cuisine above de-
cor. Marie serves what hubby Benoît cooks. Both are shy, yet proud of their restaurant.
There's a fine menu for €19, but go for the slightly pricier €29 menus, which are inventive
and très delectable (closed Mon, vegetarian options, indoor and outdoor seating, 45 Cours
Taulignan, tel. [phone]).
O'Natur'elles is ideal for vegetarians; the all-organic dishes can be served with or
withoutmeat.Localslovethisplaceandit'ssmall,soreservationsaresmart(€14-20 plats,
daily, 36 Place Montfort, tel. [phone].