PROVENCE - France 2014 - page 1020

along the peaceful river through some of the canyon's most spectacular scenery and under
the rock arch of Pont d'Arc (half-day, all-day, and 2-day trips possible; less appealing in
summer, when the river is crowded and water levels are low), and learn about hiking trails
thatgetyouaboveitall( TI tel.[phone], www.vallon-pont-darc.com ) .Ifcontinuing
north toward Lyon,connect Privas and Aubenas, then head back onthe autoroute. Endear-
ing little Balazuc —a village north of the gorges, with narrow lanes, flowers, views, and a
smattering of cafés and shops—makes a great stop.
Sleeping in Vaison la Romaine
Hotels in Vaison la Romaine are a good value and are split between the lower, main town
(with all the services) and the upper medieval village. Those in the upper town (Ville-
Haute) are quieter, cozier, cooler, and give you the feeling of sleeping in a hilltop (some
come with views), with all the services of a real town steps away. But they require a
10-minute walk to the town center and Roman ruins. If staying at one of the first three
places, follow signs to Cité Médiévale and park just outside the upper village entry (driv-
ing into the Cité Médiévale itself is a challenge, with tiny lanes and nearly impossible
parking). If you have a car, consider staying in one of the Côtes du Rhône villages near
Vaison la Romaine (see “Sleeping and Eating near Vaison la Romaine” on here ) .
$$$ Hôtel le Beffroi*** hides deep in the upper town, just above a demonstrative
bell tower (you'll hear what I mean). It offers 16th-century red-tile-and-wood-beamed-
cozy lodgings with nary a level surface. The rooms—split between two buildings a few
doors apart—are Old World comfy, and some have views. You'll also find tasteful public
spaces, a garden with view tables (light meals available in the summer), a small pool with
more views, and animated Nathalie at the reception (standard Db-€95-120, superior Db-
€160, Tb-€180, Rue de l'Evêché, tel. [phone], www.le-beffroi.com , info@le-bef-
froi.com ) . The hotel's restaurant offers menus from €28 (closed for lunch weekdays and
all day Tue).
$$$ L'Evêché Chambres, almost next door to le Beffroi in the upper town (look
for the ivy), is a five-room, melt-in-your-chair B&B. The owners (the Verdiers) have an
exquisite sense of interior design and are passionate about books, making this place feel
like a cross between a library and an art gallery (Sb-€78-85, standard Db-€93, Db suite-
€120-140,the solanum suiteiswortheveryeuro,Tb-€120-160,guestcomputerandWi-Fi,
Rue de l'Evêché, tel. [phone], http://eveche.free.fr , [e-mail] ) .
$$ Hôtel la Fête en Provence, conveniently located for drivers at the entry to the
medievaluppertown,hasavarietyofroomshapesandsizes.Allthe15roomsarechiffon-
comfortable, and several have small kitchenettes. Rooms are located around a courtyard,
with noise from the restaurant in summer (except Tue and Wed when it's closed), and