KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK AND VICINITY - Canadian Rockies: Including Banff and Jasper National Parks - page 271

selling just about everything. Nearby Spillimacheen (“white water” to the natives) sits at
the confluence of the Spillimacheen River and Bugaboo Creek.
SOUTH ALONG HIGHWAY 93/95
The highway south from Radium takes you 140 kilometers (87 miles) to the city of Cran-
brook, which sits on Highway 3, a major transprovincial route across the southern portion
of British Columbia. This highway accesses four provincial parks: Whiteswan, Top of the
World, Elk Lakes, and Height of the Rockies.
Invermere
The commercial center of the Columbia River Valley is Invermere (pop. 3,500), on the
shoreline of Lake Windermere 15 kilometers (nine miles) south of Radium. The popula-
tion swells threefold throughout summer as vacation homes in Invermere and surrounding
lakeside communities fill with a mostly Albertan influx of visitors who come for the water
sports, the swimming, and the holiday atmosphere.
Off the Invermere access road, toward Wilmer, a small plaque marks the site of
Kootenae House. Established by David Thompson in 1807, it was the first trading post
on the Columbia River. The valley's first permanent settlement, known as Athalmer, was
alongside the outlet of Lake Windermere, but continual flooding led to the town's expan-
sion on higher ground. The old town site is now a popular recreation area, where a pleasant
grassy area dotted with picnic tables runs right down to a sandy beach and the warm, shal-
low waters of the lake. It's on the left as you travel along the Invermere access road. As
you approach the town itself, consider a stop at Windermere Valley Museum (622 3rd
St., 250/342-9769, 11am-4pm Mon.-Fri. in summer, donation), where the entire history of
the valley is contained in seven historic buildings.
Invermere holds limited accommodations, but it has plenty of eateries, grocery stores,
and gas stations. On a Saturday morning in downtown Invermere, you'll find all sorts of
goodies at the outdoor market, which happens right on the main street. Farther down the
hill, the Quality Bakery (888/681-9977, 7:30am-6pm Mon.-Sat., daily in summer) lives
up to its name with a huge range of ultrahealthy sandwiches and not-so-healthy cakes and
pastries. The town's most upscale dining room is Strand's (up the hill from the main street
at 818 12th St., 250/342-6344, 5pm-9pm daily, $24-38). It's contained in a restored 1912
heritage house set on landscaped gardens, with diners seated in small, intimate rooms. The
immaculately presented seasonal menu often includes delicacies such as trout, salmon, and
venison that are served with a wide selection of vegetables.