Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The only accommodation here is at the simple TEA guesthouse (see box below).
Several jungle trails can be explored on foot or horseback, and local
guides
can show
you excellent birding spots; check with village chairman Alvin Lindo.
Barranco was also the birthplace of celebrated musician
Andy Palacio
(see p.255),
who was buried here following his sudden death in 2008.
ACCOMMODATION
INLAND TOLEDO
BIG FALLS
The Lodge at Big Falls
T
732 4444 or
T
610 0126,
W
thelodgeatbigfalls.com.
Smart, comfortable and very
spacious thatched
cabañas
, set in 29 landscaped and
flower-filled acres on a meandering bend of the Río
Grande, and signposted half a mile west from the highway.
All are fully screened, with tiled floors, ceiling fans, roomy
bathrooms, hardwood furniture and a large deck with
hammocks; two have a/c and kitchenettes. Two hundred
species of birds have been recorded here, and butterflies
are everywhere along the trails by the riverbank; kayaks
and inner tubes also available - put in at San Miguel, 5
miles upstream, for a wonderful float back home. Fresh
juices from the citrus orchard are served in the restaurant,
or at an outdoor grill by the swimming pool.
l. Rates d
o not
include meals, at US$65 per person per day.
US$251
SAN PEDRO COLUMBIA
Maya Mountain Research Farm
2 miles upriver from
San Pedro Columbia
T
630 4386,
W
mmrfbz.org.
Concealed within the folds of the namesake mountains,
this unique set-up offers permaculture students, volunteers
and eco warriors a rare opportunity to fall off the grid.
Getting here is an adventure in itself - with the help of a
guide from San Pedro Columbia, you either hike or paddle
in on a canoe. The rustic wooden cabins barely interfere
with the engulfing jungle cacao farm, which borders a
pristine stretch of the Río Grande, and meals are cooked on
a wood-fired stove and shared in a large
palapa
; wi-fi is
available, and other activities include hiking - Lubaantun
is less than 2 miles away - tubing, and exploring
unexcavated ruins. They prefer visitors to stay f
for at lea
st a
week. Per person per day, three meals included
US$50
6
SAN MIGUEL
Back-a-Bush
San Miguel
T
631 1731,
W
back-a-bush
.com.
Very simple rooms in a garden compound just off the
road to Lubaantun, run by friendly Dutch owner, long-time
resident Elsbeth. As well as a dorm holding six bunks,
there's also one private room with its own shower,
a more
comfor
table cabin
and s
pace fo
r camp
ing. Ca
mping
US$5
,
dorms
US$12.50
, room
US$30
, cabin
US$50
SAN ANTONIO
Bol's Hilltop Hotel
San Antonio
T
702 2144.
Basic
rooms with shared bath and superb views; also a good
place to g
et info
rmation on local natural history and
archeology.
US$10
★
Farm Inn
Santa Cruz Rd, San Antonio
T
732 4781 or
T
604 4918,
W
thefarminnbelize.com.
Very comfortable
accommodation on a lush, working chocolate farm, 2 miles
MAYA VILLAGE GUESTHOUSES AND HOMESTAYS
Five Mopan or Kekchí Maya villages in Toledo - Laguna, San Antonio, Santa Elena, San José and
San Miguel - have built basic but clean eight-bed
guesthouses
, which accommodate
overnight guests for Bz$25 per person. Visitors can
eat
with local families for Bz$7-8 per meal.
Each location has its own attraction, be it a cave, waterfall, river or ruin, and offers activities
such as guided walks or rental kayaks for around Bz$10-15 per hour. In a further five villages
- Barranco, Blue Creek, Medina Bank, Pueblo Viejo and San Pedro Columbia - a similar range of
activities is available, but there's no overnight accommodation. The programme is organized
by the
Toledo Ecotourism Association
(TEA;
T
722 2531,
W
teabelize.org). Look out for its
logo as you travel around; it's extremely unusual for the guesthouses to be booked up so in
most cases you can just show up in the village and stay. TEA also arranges packages, including
accommodation plus all meals and activities, for Bz$85 per person per day, while its website
details
bus timetables
for the villages.
In addition, the
Maya Village Homestay Network
, run by Yvonne and Alfredo Villoria
(
Dem Dats Doin
';
T
722 2470,
E
demdatsdoin@btl.net), enables visitors to stay with a Mopan or
Kekchí Maya family in one of three villages - Aquacate, San José and Na Luum Ca. It's an
excellent way to experience Maya life and culture without feeling like an intruder. Guests
participate in village work - grinding corn, chopping firewood, cooking tortillas and the like
- learn about medicinal plants and ancient myths, and pick up a few Maya words. There are
few modern conveniences like electricity and flush toilets (though most villages have
community telephones), and you'll probably sleep in a hammock.
