The south - The Rough Guide to Belize - page 203

CONFEDERATES AND METHODISTS IN PUNTA GORDA
The Toledo settlement , the ruins of which still stand north of Punta Gorda, was founded in
1867 by Confederate emigrants from the US who hoped to recreate the antebellum South in
what was then British Honduras. Slavery having been abolished hereabouts decades earlier,
and the resident Garifuna and Creoles displaying not the slightest inclination to work for
former slave owners, the settlers brought over indentured labourers from India. They called
these labourers “coolies”, and their descendants still live in Punta Gorda and along the Southern
Highway; though long since fully assimilated into Belizean culture, they're still referred to as
“coolies” by other ethnic groups, though rarely in a derogatory way.
Many Confederate settlers drifted back to the US, discouraged by the torrential downpours
and the rigours of frontier life, but those who stayed were soon joined by Methodists from
Mississippi. The Methodists were deeply committed to the settlement and, despite a cholera
epidemic in 1868, managed to clear 160 acres. Between 1870 and 1890 sugar became the
main product, with twelve separate estates running their own mills. After this, falling sugar
prices ensured that farmers moved into alcohol production, but this was out of the question
for the Methodists, who preferred to feed their molasses to their cattle. By 1910 their
community was destitute, although it was largely thanks to their struggle that Toledo was
permanently settled.
For more details, read the fascinating book by Donald C. Simmons, Jr, Confederate
Settlements in British Honduras .

6

By bus Buses to and from Belize City stop outside the
James Buses o ce just off Front St, though the express
bus departs at 6am from the petrol station at the
northeast edge of the centre. Buses to the Maya villages
leave from the market area, with only a minimal service
on Sundays.
Destinations Belize City via Belmopan and Dangriga (10
daily, express service at 6am; 4hr 45min-6hr 30min);
Jalacte via San Antonio, Rio Blanco and Pueblo Viejo (Mon-
Sat 3-4 daily, Sun 6am only; 3hr); San Benito Poite, via
Blue Creek (4 weekly; 2hr 30min); Silver Creek via San
Pedro Columbia (for Lubaantun) and San Miguel (Mon-Sat
4-5 daily; 2hr).
By plane Maya Island Air and Tropic Air operate several
daily flights from Belize City (via Dangriga and Placencia),

landing at the utterly rudimentary airstrip five blocks west
of the main dock, which is a 5-10min walk from most of
the town's hotels. The hour-long flight usually costs
US$120-150 one way.
By boat Four boats sail each day from the main dock near
the centre of the seafront to Puerto Barrios in Guatemala.
Requena's Charter Service leaves at 9.30am ( T 722 2070,
E [e-mail]); Memo's at 1pm; Pichilingo at 2pm
( T 502 7948 5525); and Marisol at 4pm ( T 722 2870).
There's also a ferry to Livingston (departing Tues & Fri at
10am). There's no need to buy your ticket in advance; just
turn up at the dock half an hour before departure.
Destinations Puerto Barrios, Guatemala (4 daily; 1hr;
Bz$50); Livingston, Guatemala (2 weekly; 10am Tues & Fri;
1hr; Bz$60).

GETTING AROUND
Car rental Barefoot Services, in Placencia ( T 523 3066,
W barefootservicesbelize.com), will deliver rental cars to
Punta Gorda. Rates start around US$100/day. It's also
possible to rent a car through Sun Creek Lodge ( T 604 2124,
W suncreeklodge.de).

By taxi For a reliable taxi, call Galvez Taxi ( T 722 2402).
By bike Bike rental, at around Bz$25/day, is available from
PG Bike Rental, opposite the tourist o ce, and Justin, at
Prince St, near the airstrip ( T 663 9173).

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES
Tourist information The Belize Tourism Industry
Association has a large o ce in a pretty colonial building,
just south of the dock on Front St (Mon-Fri 8am-noon &
1-5pm; T 722 2531); staff can help with transport
schedules and in setting up tours of the outlying cayes and
sites in Toledo District. Be sure to pick up a copy of the free
local newspaper, the Toledo Howler .
Blue Belize Dan Castellanos, a traditional fisherman
turned tour guide and PADI Divemaster, offers expert

marine tours from fishing to snorkelling. He's based at the
Blue Belize Guest House (see p.208).
Garbutt Brothers Based at the small marina at the
entrance to town, the Garbutt brothers run scuba, snorkel
and marine tours - they're especially adept at fly-fishing
- as well as affordable trips to the pristine Lime Caye. They
also rent kayaks and seaside cabins ( T 604 3548,
W garbuttsfishinglodge.com).
Maroon Creole Drum School Emmeth Young, co-owner