Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE PINE RIDGE LIVES ON
Belizeans regard their pine forest as a national treasure, so the severe infestation of the
southern pine bark beetle
that first affected the Mountain Pine Ridge in 2000, and has
returned repeatedly since, has caused anguish throughout the country. As they feed, the
beetle larvae kill the trees, and a new generation of larvae appears every four or five weeks. As
you drive the sandy roads in the reserve, you'll see large areas of bare, lifeless pines, stretching
to the horizon in places; more than three quarters of the region's trees have been destroyed.
The beetles were initially helped by the government's former policy of fire suppression,
which allowed trees to grow more densely than they would naturally. Now, however, the
situation has been brought under control by a wide-ranging
reforestation programme
, and
the forest is expected to recover. Even dead trees make an important contribution, providing
hunting grounds for woodpeckers and other insect-eaters and thinning the forest as they fall,
which makes recurrences of the infestation less likely and reveals new vistas for visitors to
enjoy. Though the appearance of the Pine Ridge has been altered, it's still a beautiful place.
see the river itself, but this is the headwater of Roaring Creek, which flows through
the ATM cave not far north (see p.125). Don't try to clamber any closer; it's an
extremely dangerous climb. Dawn and dusk are the best times to view the falls as
you'll very likely be the only visitors. The viewpoint holds a rather rundown shelter
with toilets, but no other facilities.
Río On Pools
Ten miles south of the entrance to the Pine Ridge reserve, the Chiquibul Road crosses
the
Río
On
, one of several streams that drain west towards the Macal River. A short spur
road to the west leads to the
Río
On Pools
, where the river collects into pools between
huge granite boulders before plunging into a gorge right beside the road. A gorgeous
spot for a swim, it makes a great afternoon stop on your way back from Caracol, when
the pools have had time to warm up and you'll be glad of a chance to cool down.
4
Augustine/Douglas Silva
The small settlement of
Augustine/Douglas Silva
, 26 miles south of the highway and
five miles beyond the Río On Pools, holds the headquarters of the
Mountain Pine Ridge
Forest Reserve
. Originally known as Augustine, it was later renamed Douglas Silva in
honour of a local politician. Not all the signs were changed, however, and a complete
transition never occurred. Most of the houses here are long abandoned, but there are
normally some forestry workers around, who should be able to advise you on road
conditions and safety if you're heading to Caracol.
Río Frio Cave
1 mile west of Augustine/Douglas Silva
A signposted track leads west from Augustine/Douglas Silva to the
Río
Frio Cave
; most
Caracol tour companies drive all the way to the site, but if you're in your own vehicle
the going is rough enough to make it worth walking for twenty minutes instead. At the
end, you're confronted with the largest cave entrance in Belize, a gaping 100ft hole
where the Río Frio emerges from beneath a small hill. In fact it's more of a tunnel than
a cave; if you enter the foliage-framed mouth, and are carrying a torch, it's possible to
clamber over limestone terraces for half a mile until you're back out in the open. Sandy
beaches and rocky cliffs line the river on both sides.
GETTING AROUND
BETWEEN BELMOPAN AND SAN IGNACIO
By bus
Regular buses run along the George Price
Hwy between Belize City and Belmopan in the east, and
San Ignacio and Benque Viejo in the west. In addition,
Mesh buses connect San Ignacio with the village of
San Antonio/Tanah, on the Cristo Rey Rd (Mon-Sat,
2 daily; 1hr).
