Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
While Spanish Lookout is in no sense a tourist destination - and the lack of road
signs makes it pretty hard to find in the first place - it's worth seeing, as an unlikely
sight even in this exceptionally diverse country. Its neat farmhouses, paved roads,
wide open white-fenced fields grazed by plump dairy herds and its up-to-the-minute
car and tractor showrooms lend it an extraordinary resemblance to the American
Midwest, an effect that has only been enhanced since the discovery of
crude oil
here
in 2006 has added nodding pumps to the equation. While the Mennonites are
renowned for their enthusiastic embrace of modern technology, they were far from
keen at the prospect of developing the oil fields here, which were deemed to belong
to the country as a whole. The anticipated boost to the social welfare of Belize has
yet to materialize, however; so far, the proceeds have merely serviced a small portion
of the national debt.
The Chiquibul Road
he unpaved
Chiquibul Road
heads south from the George Price Highway from the
linear little community
Georgeville
, located around Mile 62. Also known as the
Georgeville Road
, and sometimes as the Pine Ridge or Mountain Pine Ridge Road, it's
the main access route to the
Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve
and onwards to the
Maya site of
Caracol
. Entertaining diversions during its initial nine-mile section, before
it reaches the reserve, include the canoe trip through
Barton Creek Cave
and the
colourful
Green Hills Butterfly Ranch
. No buses pass this way, but hotels and adventure
companies offer daily tours. It's also easy to explore in your own vehicle - though you'll
need four-wheel-drive if you plan to venture as far as Caracol, or indeed do anything
more than the simple loop to San Ignacio on the
Cristo Rey Road
(see opposite).
4
Barton Creek Cave
8 miles southeast of George Price Hwy, via Chiquibul Rd • Guided tours only, recommended operators include David's Adventure
Tours in San Ignacio (Bz$90;
T
804 3674,
W
davidsadventuretours.net) and the on-site Mike's Place (Bz$130;
T
670 0441,
W
bartoncreekcave.com)
Known to the Maya, like so many caves, as a route into the mysterious underworld,
Barton Creek Cave
can only be accessed by river, in guided canoe trips. Like ATM
(see p.125), it holds stunning natural formations as well as ancient artefacts and the
skeletons of sacrificial victims. Here they're only glimpsed from a distance, picked out
by torchlight, but the tours offer a real sense of adventure, without being as physically
demanding as visits to ATM. These can be arranged through operators and hotels
throughout the region, and typically require around four hours at the cave, plus the
travelling time to get here. Unlike ATM, it's also usually possible to reach the site in
your own vehicle - assuming you're happy driving on
very
rough dirt roads - and hook
up with a guide on the spot. Naturally it's worth checking in advance with the on-site
operator, Mike's Place (see above).
TAPIR MOUNTAIN NATURE RESERVE
Six miles south of the George Price Highway, between Roaring and Barton creeks,
Tapir
Mountain Nature Reserve
protects seventeen square miles of the foothills of the Maya
Mountains to such an extent that there's no access for visitors. Managed by the Belize
Audubon Society, the reserve holds a rich, well-watered habitat covered in high canopy and
moist tropical forest, and is home to all of Belize's
national symbols
: Baird's tapir, the
keel-billed toucan, the black orchid and the mahogany tree. Nature reserves are Belize's
highest category of protected land and, as the designation aims to “maintain natural processes
in an undisturbed state”, Tapir Mountain can only be visited by accredited researchers.
Unfortunately, its status does not guarantee the reserve protection from hunters, or even from
encroachment by farmers.
