Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Until about twenty years ago, tourism existed almost as a sideline to the island's main
source of income, lobster fishing . Although the lobster catch increased for many years
after fishing cooperatives were set up in the 1960s, the deployment of more traps over
an ever-wider area led to the rapid depletion of the spiny lobster , once so common that
it could be scooped onto the beaches with palm fronds. Their numbers remain low
today, and in some years the creatures are so scarce that the fishermen call it quits by
mid-January, a month before the end of the legal season. Despite this, there are always
plenty of lobsters around for the annual Lobster Fest , held in June to celebrate the
reopening of the season.
The big draw, of course, is the Barrier Reef , which unfolds only a mile from the
shore - the white foam of the reef crest is always visible to the east. The entire length
of the reef off Caye Caulker - as in Ambergris Caye - was declared a marine reserve
in 1998, and visiting it is an experience not to be missed. Dozens of tour companies
offer trips, from diving to sailing to snorkelling, where you can swim along coral
canyons, surrounded by an astonishing range of fish, with perhaps a harmless nurse
shark or two.
Caye Caulker's five-mile length is split into two unequal sections by the “Split”,
originally a small passage cut by local fishermen that's since grown into a swiftly
moving boat channel, widened by successive tropical storms. The main village, and
most hotels, are on the northern end of the south island. The north island has long
been largely uninhabited, but the caye as a whole is experiencing a build-up on both
sides of the Split. Still, most visitors have little reason to venture to the north island,
except for the occasional trip to the land section of the Caye Caulker Forest and Marine
Reserve , whose littoral forest covers the northern tip of the caye.
No matter where you roam on the island, bring a good insect repellent: though there
is a near-constant sea breeze, when this drops the air gets very sticky, and sandflies and
mosquitoes can be unbearable.
3
Caye Caulker Forest and Marine Reserve
At the island's northern tip is the Caye Caulker Forest and Marine Reserve , home to
such trees as red, white and black mangroves, gumbo limbo and poisonwood. This area
was a coconut plantation before Hurricane Hattie hit in 1961, but has not been in
active use since, so the native littoral forest has had nearly fifty years to regenerate. The
mangrove shallows support fish nurseries and small species called “sardines” by
fishermen, who use them as bait to catch snapper. Sponges, anemones and other
colourful sea creatures grow on the mangrove roots. American saltwater crocodiles are
sometimes seen here, but you're more likely to find them in the wild on the Turneffe
Atoll (see p.114) or in the more remote coastal areas. Other native inhabitants of the
littoral forest include boa constrictors , scaly-tailed iguanas (locally called “wish
willies”), geckos and five species of land crab. Local tour companies (see p.100) will
offer day-trips here upon request.
The beach
Caye Caulker has only a small beach, as the proximity of the reef stops sand building
up on the foreshore, and the water's too shallow for true swimming , which is best done
from the end of piers or at the Split at the north end of the village. Swimming out to
the reef is discouraged, since it requires crossing a busy boat lane where fatal accidents
have occurred in the past, as captains do not expect swimmers.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
CAYE CAULKER
By plane Tropic Air (see p.23) and Maya Island Air (see
p.23) operate flights between Belize International Airport
(from Bz$144 one way) and Belize Municipal Airport (from
Bz$75 one way) and San Pedro (at least hourly, daily
 
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