Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
This was our fifth main Temple Complex out of the nine in Complex 1, more than enough
to see. Slowly reversing direction, we headed towards the exit.
What Goes Up 3,500 Steps, Must Come Down
Pilgrims were still coming up the steps at 11:00a in intense heat as we began walking down.
Litter bearers tried to pick up business, and by the halfway mark, a constant refrain of
"Cheap dolly? Cheap dolly?" surrounded us. Women were carrying supplies on their heads,
the only way anything gets to the top of Palitana.
I took it slow on the easy steps, stopping to people watch along the way, counting steps
until I'd lose track and have to begin again at zero, while young girls flew by me, run-
ning down in record time. Downhills take a brutal toll on knees, but quads, knees and butt
were going into muscle spasm. According to Niru, it was four miles up and, naturally, four
miles down. That may be fact, or not. All I know is my legs were trembling by the time I
conquered the last of those 3,500 steps. If Niru was correct, no wonder they're trembling.
How the heck do those ultra-devout Jains make 2-3 roundtrips in one day?
We noticed groups of Jains performing another ritual. One person would pour a little
holy oil on a step. The next person would lay a rose, a few grains of rice and, occasionally,
silver paper on the same step. Still another person would wave burning incense over the
entire offering. Thisritualwasrepeatedoneveryoneofthe3,500steps. (My back ached
just watching.)
Two more rituals at the bottom. Devout Jains touched their heads to the steps in prayer
before beginning the climb. A group of Hindus sitting along the path had bowls of milk/
water to wash the feet of pilgrims coming down. Niru and I got in line (we were pilgrims),
and waited our turn. I really didn't want my feet washed and was told to just hold out a
hand. Milk/water laved on that hand, the next person put a bindi on my forehead (dot of red
color), followed by another person who spritzed my face with water (totally fogging up my
glasses). The last person, handed me 10 Rupees, Holy money that had been blessed!
Into the wonderfully, air-conditioned car for the ride back to Bhavanagar with new road
sights: silvery looking carts used for rituals and weddings; a mongoose ran across the road;
and a decorated ELEPHANT , used in wedding processions and rituals.
A few pilgrimage facts and trivia as told to us along the road:
Pilgrims usually walk 100-200 kms/62-125 mile walk from their villages, and many make
this pilgrimage at least twice a year;
Group pilgrimages are arranged. You can walk with: young people, old people, all men, all
women, and/or families;
If you walk with a big group, night stays are prearranged. On your own? Any house or vil-
lage will take you in since it is considered an honor to host a pilgrim;
Sadhus dress in orange because orange is a spiritual color; and
When you notice flags on top of temples, houses, or carried, this is how you tell the differ-
ence: Hindu flags are triangular; Jain flags are rectangular.
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