Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Important Temple City of Palitana
I don't like getting up at 4:30a back home, let alone on a vacation. Out of bed, dressed,
snarfed down a quick breakfast, and were on the road to Palitana by 6:00a. This 1-2 hour
drive (only 50 kms/31 miles) was on dark, narrow, twisting roads, lit only by headlights from
passing cars and trucks. A small miracle that neither people, cows nor us were killed driv-
ing. Desheret parked and stretched out in back of the car with a blanket to sleep for the next
6-7 hours while we climbed up and down the hill. Lucky him!
Exactly,
why
were we here? To visit the major Jain pilgrimage center of Shetrunjaya,
referred to by most visitors and Jains, as Palitana, the town's name. Travels With Sheila will
also refer to it as Palitana, throughout this section. Shetrunjaya summit has the most
revered
Jain temple complex in the world
, surpassing those of Mt. Abu and Ranakpur. There are
hundreds of other temples found in and around town, but ex-Marine and I were here to see
some of the
863 elaborate temples on top
along with the people on pilgrimage.
There are small hotels and guesthouses in Palitana town to choose from if you prefer
that to Bhavnagar, where most Jains on pilgrimage stay. It is believed that
everyJain
should
visit Palitana at least once in their lifetime to get "Bhavya" status (fit to attain nirvana or
salvation). Millions of people visit these temples every year. At dusk,
everyone
must leave
this temple city on Shetrunjaya Hill, including the
priests
who then return at dawn.
This may not sound like a big deal until you learn: it is 3,500 steps up to the top; 3,500
steps back down to the bottom; and takes, approximately, two hours in each direction.
No
food or liquids
is allowed within the temple complex.
We were
mesmerized
by all the action taking place on the main street leading to the
steps up. Pilgrims were buying Jain food to use for devotions: rice, coconut, and fruit. Palan-
quin/litter bearers swarmed potential clients hoping to carry them up the mountain. There
must have been 500 men offering their services with two styles of litters. One Thousand Ru-
pees to be carried by a two-man litter in which the client sits on a small seat
suspended by
ropes in the center
; 2,000 Rupees for a more luxurious "seat" litter, carried by four men.
The palanquins/litters are called "Doli," like "hello dolly" and the litter bearers refused
to leave me alone, positive this "soft" American would never make it up the hill. It wasn't
until I pantomimed that I was going to run up the hill, did they desist,
temporarily
, laughing
at my demonstration.
Know Before You Go to Palitana
All visitors need
camera permits
, 100 Rupees per camera;
No
camcorders
are allowed;
It is forbidden to photograph any of the
Temple Idols
;
