Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Adi Kadi Vav and Navghan Kuvo Step
Wells of Junagadh, Gujarat, India
Since the Buddhist caves in Uparkot Fort were in bad condition, we bypassed them, and
headed directly to the step wells.
What is a step well
? A step well, is a well in which the
water can be reached by descending a set of steps. Step wells may be covered, protected,
and are often of architectural significance. Found primarily in West India, Gujarat is famed
for its step wells. Travels With Sheila would visit the
creme de la creme
of step wells later
in this trip.
There are two step wells by Uparkot Fort in Junagadh: Adi Kadi Vav and Navghan Kuvo.
Adi Kadi Vav Step Well
is a artificial canyon, carved out of virgin rock, and 41 meters/135
feet deep. This is one of Gujarat's earliest step wells. It doesn't have ornamental designs, but
green parrots, flitting between the large grey blocks, added brilliant touches.
Again, we were the only Westerners at Uparkot Fort, and continually asked to pose with
Indian tourists and locals.
FYI
: Each "pose" involved stopping for at least 10 minutes while
one person in the group produced a digital camera, posed with us, followed by the next per-
son who posed with us, and so on.
A “short” legend about
Adi Kadi Vav Step Well
: “After digging a deep well, there was
no water at the bottom... King consulted an astrologer/priest who told him to sacrifice two
spinsters and there would be water...Two of the King's servant girls, Adi and Kadi, offered
themselves, slit wrists, lo and behold, water!” Colorful clothes and bangles are hung on a
tree to this day, in memory of the two sisters, along with another tradition; walk down to the
well bottom, gargle the
filthy
well water, and spit it out in the dirt
outside
the well. This
guarantees a place in eternity, which you'll probably enter, a few days after gargling that wa-
ter!
The
Navghan Kuvo Step Well
descended nine levels to a depth of
120+ feet
. Cut into
soft rock and named after Navghan I who ruled over Junagadh in 1060, this step well has
a circular staircase winding around the shaft leading down to water. The stairs are lit, and
cooled, by small square openings. Just imagine making your way up and down these wells,
carrying heavy water vessels on your head, and try to remember how fortunate those of us
are who
have
clean water out of a tap.