Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE DESERT TRIBES OF KUTCH
The Rabari Tribal People
Members of the Rabari tribe live throughout different states in India. Those in Kutch are
believed to have migrated from North Rajasthan, in the Pushkar region, which would ex-
plain why they have incorporated Rajasthani colors and designs. The word "Rabari" means
“outsiders” because they are herders who were once nomadic people. These days, the Rabar-
is are said to be semi-nomadic, and we were lucky enough to see several nomadic caravans
on the road through Gujarat.
The Rabari also live in Pakistan, where they are known by other names such as: Desai,
Dewasi, Hirvanshi, Rabari, and Rawari. The Rabari women were easy for Travels With
Sheila to recognize from the get-go wearing long, black headscarves, which fell loosely
to the ground. Clothes show their culture and did vary a bit in other regions of Gujarat.
However, women being women, there were definite fashion statements among them. For ex-
ample, by using bright head shawls instead of "basic black.”
Embroidery, Jewelry and Tattoos
Rabaris are known for embroidery on textiles, especially in Kutch, that expresses their cre-
ativity and identity. Afternoon in the villages found women sitting together, working on
trousseaus, wearing a skirt, blouse and veil. They use bold shapes, small mirrors, and let
imaginations run free.
Jewelry
I've never seen so much realgold on women, in one place, as I did during the puja ceremony
in Bhujodi. I kept asking Kantilal, "Is that real? Is that real? Are you sure? How about all
those necklaces?" They wear all their wealth, day-in and day-out, and even small children
wore gold. Whether it was chains with protective amulets, nose rings, or long, dangly ear-
rings. The earrings in Bhujodi were long, while other villages wore an abstract form of snake
earrings. Both really appealed to me (along with gold amulets) until I heard exactly how
much this jewelry cost! No traditional Rabari jewelry for Sheila.
Tattoos
The Rabari women tattoo magical symbols onto their necks, breasts and arms. Purely by ac-
cident, I photographed several women without even noticing tattoos down their neck until I
uploaded them into my computer. Interestingly enough, none of the children had tattoos.
The Rabari women, who are creative, vibrant, intelligent, strong and beautiful, graciously
allowed me to photograph them.
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