Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
What to See in Bhuj?
The Aina Mahal Museum inside The Pragmahal Palace
Bhuj suffered a devastating earthquake in 2001. The 8.9 quake lasted for 1-1/2 minutes, and
over 20,000 people were killed; it took place in the morning when people were still home.
The earthquake was felt as far away as Delhi, and Kolkata. Even Ahmedabad, capital of
Gujarat, was badly affected but Bhuj felt the brunt. Evidence of this earthquake remains in
cultural heritage sites that
still
have not been restored.
The Pragmahal Palace is one of the fortunate sites that was restored, including its historic
clock tower. This ornate Royal Palace was commissioned by Rao Pragmalji II and built from
1838-1876. There is an admission fee, 10 Rupees per person, along with a 30 Rupee cam-
era fee if you want to photograph inside the Aina Mahal Museum. Before entering the Aina
Mahal Museum, walk around the outside.
The harem, constructed with Italian marble and sandstone, was not deemed to be of cultural
significance, and hasn't been restored. I fell in love with the derelict, still beautiful balconies,
carved screens, windows and ornamentation. If women had to spend their lives secluded,
what an incredible setting! I can't even imagine what the inside was like before the earth-
quake. The harem can come crumbling down at any time and no one is allowed to go inside.
Travels With Sheila and ex-Marine (husband, Steve) entered the Pragmahal Palace
where splendor awaited. After all, what's the sense of being "Royal" if not to lavish money
on "bigger is better"? Visitors are allowed to visit only one section in the Palace complex,
the Aina Mahal Museum; a princely complex also known as “The Bhuj Darbargarh.” Tourist
enter the Aina Mahal through a large room dominated by the Maharajah's ornately decorated
camel cart, litter, and elephant howdah. (A “houdah/howdah” is a carriage which is usually
positioned on the back of an elephant.) It was certainly good to be rich!
Bhuj was founded in 1548 by Rao Khengarji I who began a dynasty that ruled over Bhuj,
in Kutch/Kachchh, Gujarat for over 400 years. Most of the city palaces, of the former kings
of the princely kingdoms that once made up this region, became obsolete or abandoned as
the Maharajahs constructed new palaces out of town. Very few sections of these Princely
Palaces are open to view, while others have been turned into hotels.
We began walking through the eighteenth century Aina Mahal into one inner courtyard
that had marble columns, mirrored columns, and exquisite indigo floor tiles made in India
by Ramsinghji Malam, the artist who also designed the Room of Mirrors. Each footstep and
corner brought new views of decorated walls, ceilings, paintings of people and royal life,
miniatures, and doors inlaid with ivory.
Kantilal, spewing information like a fountain, finally led us into what is considered the
Aina Mahal highlight. The resplendent
Hall of Mirrors
. ("Aina" means mirrors in Hindi).
