Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
PATAN, SIDHPUR AND BALARAM
The Unbelievable, Rani-ki-Vav/Raniki Vav
Step Well
What is a step well
? A step well usually has a natural spring at the bottom reached by
descending a set of steps. Differences between step wells, water tanks and wells? To make it
easier for people to reach the ground water, maintain and manage the well. (The meaning of
"Raniki vav" is “step well.”)
Step Wells were built by Kings and Queens to commemorate a dead person (Raniki Vav
was built in the memory of Bhimdev I). These step wells also served multiple purposes. Be-
cause they were built with roofs and architecturally ornamented, one level usually contained
a caravanserai (inn) for weary travelers while other levels provided relief from the daytime
heat. Gujarat has the best examples of this step well culture found in India. The Rani-ki Vav/
Raniki Vav step well is really beyond my descriptive ability.
We paid the admission, including video fees, and approached the step well by walking
across a wide expanse of grass with monkeys playing in the shade. The approach gave no
clue what awaited with only small walls visible in the distance. When we rounded the corner,
and got a look at Raniki Vav?
In--cred--ible
to the max...
This nothing short of fabulous, step well was built by Queen Udayamati in the 11th cen-
tury when Patan was the capital of Gujarat, Raniki Vav descends seven stories below the
ground. Visitors are only allowed to descend four stories though, reached by narrow, half
steps. Each, and every, level is decorated with amazing carvings on walls, columns and ceil-
ings.
Most of the sculpture is in devotion to Vishnu in the form of his Avatars (Krishna,
Rama...) that represent their return to the world. Directly over the well is a carving of Vishnu
reclining on a cobra. Other Hindu gods like Ganesha were easily recognized while others
had to be explained to us by Niru who had an unlimited store of knowledge.
There were sun symbols on ceilings, magnificent sculptures of goddesses, apsaras (beau-
tiful, supernatural women), nagakanyas (spirit serpents), and yoginis (female demons or sor-
cerers). The intricate, and graceful apsaras were my personal favorite wearing jewelry, dan-
cing, looking in a mirror, and even applying lipstick.
Niru pointed out a series of incised squares that were used as
block print designs
on
cloth. It is hard to believe that all this beauty lay completely buried under tons of dirt for
centuries until a portion collapsed during the 1881 monsoon. According to an ancient le-
