Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
and children, and see the results on-camera. This heart-wrenching community was one of
the few places in Gujarat that had naked children running around (one little boy carrying a
pet goat over his shoulder), and many people were without sandals.
I wanted to buy bracelets to help them, but found it impossible because all the women
were needy. Niru told me, "Pick one woman and buy, the rest will understand." I couldn't.
With each Mir woman selling the same goods, how could I buy from just one when they
were all so poor?
The Kharapat Rabari Village of Dasada
Back on the camel cart, Rajah the Camel broke into a spirited "trot" as we continued down
the highway, eyeball-to-eyeball with bullock butts, through the middle of sheep being driv-
en by Bharward shepherds, heading towards the Kharapat Rabari village of Dasada. Other
communities near Dasada are: Padhars (primarily fishing people), the semi-nomadic Ba-
janias, Jaths (Muslim herders), and Siddis. The Kharapat Rabaris of Dasada are known for
their embroideries; all I wanted was to could get off the camel cart. Just as I had thought, a
little camel cart, or donkey cart, transportation goes a l-o-n-g way!
Rajah pulled off the highway, down a dirt road running along what was either a small
lake or reservoir. Women and children of all ages were washing dishes, and doing laundry
down by the water. I'll get on my soapbox and speak to myself. "Sheila, you don't know
how fortunate you are to have clean, running water in the house. You don't have to walk
(who knows how far) to a well, lake, or river every day of your life, schlepping water con-
tainers, dishes, and laundry." Repeat over and over, "Don't take this for granted."
Niru led us into one house to look at Rabari embroideries. A local women and her four
daughters make the embroidered, mirrored cloths. Not interested in buying, I still enjoyed
looking at their beautiful work. Her life story was far more fascinating especially when I
noticed tattoos on her arms. She was 45 years old, married at 15, had four daughters, and
one son. Tattoos covered her arms, legs, neck and chest; usually done when girls are in their
late teens in one session . Ouch !!
The large silver cuffs worn on her wrists were given to her at marriage, and are never
taken off, not even to sleep, unless she becomes widowed. Widows must take all jewelry
off nose, ears and arms, but can still wear necklaces. All the Gold jewelry worn by tribal
women is the real thing!
We continued through Dasada on foot, to a square where a woman sat with the cutest pair
of baby goats, born this morning, and still unsteady on their feet.
Past a group of Rabari men dressed in traditional clothing before jumping back on the
camel cart, preparing to leave Dasada. A brief glimpse of a deserted, still imposing house,
damaged during the last earthquake. This house belongs to Rann Riders' owner, built 150
years ago by his ancestors. Through the Dasada market with little shops on either side while
school children ran along our camel cart shouting "Hi's and Bye's." Foreigners in Gujarat
are a rare sight.
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