Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9
is sheer and crinkled, punctured by vast canyons such as Itaimbézinho ; some 5.8km in
length, between 600m and 2000m wide and 720m deep, Itaimbézinho is a dizzying
sight. The canyon and the area immediately surrounding it have two distinct climates
and support very different types of vegetation. On the higher levels, with relatively little
rainfall, but with fog banks moving in from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, vegetation is
typical of a cloud forest, while on the canyon's floor a mass of subtropical plants
flourishes. The park has abundant birdlife and is home to over 150 different species.
In the park, there's a visitors' centre with a display explaining the region's history and
geological structure, and a snack bar. From here, you can hire a guide to lead you down
the steep Trilha do Rio do Boi (including a 5m vertical incline that you must negotiate
by rope; 8hr) to the canyon floor. You'll need to be physically fit, have good hiking
boots and be prepared for flash floods. Most visitors, however, follow the well-marked
Trilha do Cotovelo (6.3km round-trip) keeping to the top of Itaimbézinho, enjoying
scintillating views into the canyon (a 2hr 30min walk from the visitors' centre), or the
easier Trilha do Vértice (1.4km), which affords views of Itaimbézinho and two
spectacular waterfalls, Véu da Noiva and Andorinhas.
ARRIVAL AND ACTIVITIES
PARQUE NACIONAL DOS APARADOS DA SERRA
been running local buses from Cambará to the entrance at
8am (Mon-Sat; 35min; R$5.85) - check the website for
the latest.
Moving on by bus Citral buses depart Cambará for São
Francisco daily at 1.30pm, and also 6.30am Mon-Sat
(R$14), while São Marcos runs direct to Caxias do Sul
(Mon-Fri 7.30am; Sat 7am; Sun 3.30pm; 2.5hr; R$24.05)
where you can change for the Vale dos Vinhedos.
Canyons do Sul Abel Esteves de Aguiar, Praia Grande
(Santa Catarina) T 48 3532 1085, W canyonsdosul
.com.br. Offers guided hiking tours to Parque Nacional da
Serra Geral and the Aparados da Serra, as well as
arranging all sort of activities from rappelling and
canyoning to horse riding.
BY BUS
Getting to the park via public transport is tough -
organized tours are worth considering here. First, take a
bus ( W citral.tur.br) from Gramado (see p.617) or Canela
(see p.618) to São Francisco de Paula. From São Francisco
you need to take another bus 60km northeast to Cambará
do Sul (Mon-Sat 9.15am & 5pm, Sun 11am; 1.5hr; R$14)
and ask to be let off at the entrance to the park (Citral also
has one bus to Cambará from Porto Alegre, Mon-Sat 6am,
that takes five hours; R$34.20). From Cambará it's a further
17km to the park entrance along Estrada do Itaimbézinho
(RS-427) towards Praia Grande (taxis charge around R$60
return), and another 2km from there to the edge of the
canyon. There is no bus service direct to the park, though
Expresso São Marcos ( W expressosaomarcos.com.br) has
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
CAMBARÁ DO SUL
Parador Casa da Montanha Estrada Faxinal 4800
T 54 3504 5302, W paradorcasadamontanha.com.br.
By far the most luxurious option in the area, situated at the
beginning of the road that leads to the Parque Aparados da
Serra (9km). Accommodation is in thermal tents, but
they're secure even in the strongest of winds and have
every comfort of a good hotel room. In the lodge, there's a
sitting and dining area, and a terrace with views out
towards a sheep-rearing fazenda . The food here is superb,
based on local beef, mutton, squash and bean dishes, and
the restaurant is open to non-guests. Ther e are a lso free
bikes and TV lounge, but no internet access. R$330
Pousada João de Barro Rua Pe. João Francisco Ritter
631 T 54 3251 1216, W joaodebarropousada.com.br.
This cosy little hotel in the centre of town is superb value,
VISITING THE APARADOS DA SERRA
The Parque Nacional dos Aparados da Serra can be visited throughout the year, but
spring (Oct & Nov) is the best time to see flowers. In the winter, June through to August, it
can get very cold, though visibility tends to be clearest. Summers are warm, but heavy
rainfall sometimes makes the roads and trails impassable, and fog and low-lying clouds can
completely obscure the spectacular views. Avoid April, May and September, the months with
the most sustained rain. As only one thousand visitors are permitted to enter the park each
day, it's advisable to phone the visitors' centre ( T 54 3251 1277) in advance to reserve a place.
Bring strong footwear and mosquito repellent.
 
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