The South - The Rough Guide to Brazil - page 612

per person . Mon-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight,
Sat 11.30am-midnight, Sun 11.30am-11pm.
Tudo Pelo Social Rua João Alfredo 448, Cidade Baixa
T 51 3226 4405, W restaurantetudopelosocial.com.br.
Hugely popular restaurant that serves Brazilian classics like

rice, beans and meat. The lunchtime buffet is a bargain at
R$12 per person, while the à la carte picanha “for two”
(steak; R$32) comes with huge portions of chips, rice and
salad, and easily feeds three to four people. Mon-Sat
11am-2.45pm & 6-11.45pm, Sun 11am-2.45pm.

9

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Porto Alegre boasts a lively nocturnal scene, with two main centres for nightlife: the more flashy action revolves around
Moinhos de Vento , and the hub of Rua Padre Chagas, while the Cidade Baixa (the rough triangle south of the centre
formed by Av Jose Loureiro da Silva, Av João Pessoa and Av Aureliano de Figueiredo Pinto) offers more traditional samba
joints and bohemian bars in the streets around ruas da República and João Pessoa. Try and sample the local microbrews ;
Toca da Coruja ( W cervejacoruja.com.br) is one of the best in Brazil. The city has been an important hub for live music -
“rock rural” and MPB - since the 1970s, with local legends such as Nelson Coelho de Castro (still around) and Carlinhos
Hartlieb (who died in 1984), and adopted son Bebeto Alves.

colourful Cidade Baixa hangout, with samba and bossa
nova playing most nights - patrons tend to spill out of the
tiny bar and onto the street. Also does good pizza. Daily
6pm-1.30am.
Yellow Submarine Shopping Nova Olaria (Loja 2), Rua
Lima e Silva 776 T 51 3226 5201, W baryellow
submarine.com.br. Buzzy bar and restaurant with live bands
in a newish shopping mall, loosely dedicated to the Beatles
(including the menu items) and their much-loved song. Good,
kitsch fun. Mon 11.30am-2pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-2pm &
6pm-12.30am, Sat & Sun 6pm-12.30am.

CENTRO HISTÓRICO
Armazém Água de Beber Rua Vigário José Inácio 686
T 51 9827 8000, W armazemaguadebeber.blogspot
.com. Tiny bar on the edge of the old centre, run by two
beer aficionados: they claim around a hundred different
beers are served, plus beer snacks, while DJs spin on Fri
nights. Mon-Fri 5-11pm.
TUIM Rua General Câmara 333 T 51 9962 8851. Just off
Praça de Alfândega, this pocket-sized pub in the centre is
ideal for a cool, quiet beer. TUIM also has an impressive
variety of spirits, including quality cachaça . Try their
famous anchovy and mustard sandwich (R$6). Mon-Fri
10am-9pm.

BOM FIM
Bar Ocidente Av Osvaldo Aranha 960, at João Telles
T 51 3312 1347, W barocidente.com.br. Legendary
former meeting place of dissidents since 1980, now best
known for good veggie lunches (R$10-16), its art gallery
and lively party nights: Fri is LGBT night, while Sat is
always a themed club night. Mon-Sat 11.45am-2.30pm
& 6pm-2am.

CIDADE BAIXA
Boteco Dona Neusa Rua Lima e Silva 800 T 51 3013
8700, W botecodonaneusa.com.br. No-frills samba joint,
with live bands and dancing most nights, plus plenty of
chopp (draught beer) and snacks from Northeast Brazil
(R$11-15). Mon-Sat 5pm-1am.
Budha Khe Rhi Rua Lima e Silva 867 T 51 3516 4703.
Actually a fashion store, with a cool, minimalist bar at the
back that has an outdoor section, great coffee, free wi-fi
and a happy hour. Check out the amazing, decorated
bathrooms. Mon-Sat noon-midnight.
Dirty Old Man Cocktail Pub Rua Lima e Silva 956 T 51
3085 8227, W dirtyoldman.com.br. A tribute to cult
American writer Charles Bukowski, in a tiny old house, with
a decent range of local microbrews and cocktails. Also does
excellent Brazilian food (try the batata rústica ).
Tues-Thurs & Sun 7pm-1am, Fri & Sat 7pm-2am.
★

MOINHOS DE VENTO
Dublin Rua Padre Chagas 342, Moinhos de Vento
T 51 3268 8835, W dublinpub.com.br. Every city must have
one: this is your standard faux-Irish bar and the current place
where well-to-do “gaúchos” look to enjoy themselves. Live
bands play daily and an entry fee is charged after 9pm
(Mon-Wed & Sun R$7, Thurs-Sat R$10 for women; R$20 for
men). Mon-Wed & Sun 6pm-3am, Thurs-Sat 6pm-5am.
Lagom Brewery & Pub Rua Comendador Caminha 312
T 51 3026 6660, W lagom.com.br. Porto Alegre's first brew
pub serves a range of tasty ales, stouts and IPAs on a seasonal
basis - top tipples include the amber ale and oatmeal stout.
Tues & Wed 6pm-1am, Thurs-Sat 6pm-2am.
Z Café Rua Padre Chagas 314 T 51 3029 6088, W zcafe
.com.br. Popular, stylish bar with a covered terrace on the
first floor and a rustic chic interior. Mon 11.30am-2.30pm,
Tues-Thurs 11.30am-midnight, Fri 11.30am-1am,
Sat noon-1am, Sun noon-midnight.

Espaço Cultural 512 Rua João Alfredo 512
T 51 3212 0229, W espaco512.com.br. Legendary live
music bar with a busy weekly programme of performances
and a popular house cocktail, the maracangalha ( cachaça ,
pineapple, ginger, passion fruit and red pepper). Cover
charge R$5-15. Tues, Wed & Sun 7pm-2am, Thurs-Sat
8pm-3am.
Ossip Rua da República 677 T 51 3224 2422. Lively and