Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9
PARQUE NACIONAL DO SUPERAGÜI
The islands north of Ilha do Mel - Superagüi and the Ilha das Peças - form the Parque
Nacional do Superagüi , noted for its orchids, and for its marine and Atlantic forest birds
(toucans and parrots are common). The main sections of park are off limits, but boats can cut
close to the shore, and you can visit the main village on Superagüi; the main ferry runs from
Paranaguá (Mon-Sat 2.30pm; 2.5-3.5hr; R$28 one-way), returning at 7am (Sun 2pm), but travel
agents and water taxis also offer day-trips from Ilha do Mel. On the east side of the island, a
short walk or boat ride from the village and also open to visitors, Praia Deserta is a wild
beach stretching 38km. Here you'll see marine birds such as cormorants and frigates, and in
March and April these are joined by thousands of migratory birds from North America.
ACCOMMODATION
Pousada Sobre as Ondas Ponta da Gaviota
(beach), Ilha do Superagüi T 41 3482 7118,
W superagui.net. Friendly place with several options;
comfy cottages, more basic doubles with private
bathrooms (R$55) and simple rooms with shared
bathroom. All basic rates include breakfast, b ut full l
board is worth considering (around R$20 extra). R$40
Pousada Superagüi Rua Principal, Ilha do
Superagüi T 41 3482 7149, W pousadasuperagui
.com.br. Bright, colourful no-frills HI-hostel 50m from
the village beach (Ponta da Gaviota) with friendly
owners, Dalton and Olga, who are a mine of local
inform ation. Rates includ e breakfast. HI members
R$60 ; non-members R$70
Nova Brasília and around
The island's bulbous northern half, a protected Atlantic forest ecological station (entry
is prohibited), is joined to the south by a bridge of land stretched between two gently
curving, sheltered bays where the lively main area NOVA BRASÍLIA is located - this is
where the bulk of the island's inhabitants live and where most tourist facilities (such as
they are) are located. Close to the jetty where the passenger boats land, there's a police,
medical and telephone post, and beyond this an immense beach, the Praia do Farol ,
where all the action takes place. For a pleasant and undemanding fifty-minute stroll,
wander 4km north along the beach towards the ruins of Fortaleza Nossa Senhora dos
Prazeres , the Portuguese fort (completed in 1769 to guard the entrance of Paranaguá
Bay), in the opposite direction from the Farol das Conchas (lighthouse) that overlooks
Nova Brasília.
Encantadas
The island's other major settlement, ENCANTADAS , near the southwest corner, has the
atmosphere of a sleepy fishing village and attracts most of the day-trippers. Apart from
fishermen's clapboard houses, all there is to Encantadas are a few places to stay and
eat (see p.564), and a police post. In a sheltered position facing the mainland with the
mountains all around, it can feel rather claustrophobic, but only a few minutes' walk
behind the village on the east side of the island is the Praia de Fora , where powerful
waves roll in from Africa.
The southeast beaches
The most beautiful part of the island is the series of beaches along its mountainous
southeast side, between Praia de Fora and Nova Brasília - an area of quiet coves, rocky
promontories and small waterfalls. It takes about three hours to walk the 6km trail
between the two settlements via Praia Grande but, because of the need to clamber over
rocks separating the beaches, the journey should only be undertaken at low tide. Let
someone know where you're going, and carry a bottle of water (there's a mountain stream
about halfway for a refill) and enough money to be able to return by boat if need be.
The southern tip of the island (beyond Praia da Fora), known as Ponta Encantada ,
is where you will find the Gruta das Encantadas (Enchanted Cave), focal point for a
number of local legends.
 
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