The South - The Rough Guide to Brazil - page 550

the rodoferroviária. The standard rooms are simple and
very small but some can sleep three people. An excellent

breakfast is served an d ther e's a restaurant with a
reasonable Italian menu. R$145

9

EATING
Badida Av Sete de Setembro 6045, Seminário T 41
3243 0473, W churrascariabadida.com.br; map pp.546-
547. Stylish churrascaria with a menu extending beyond
beef to include other meats and salads. Steak lovers should
not miss this - the cuts are some of the best in Brazil (prime
rib and T-bone R$60-80). Good lunch specials too. Daily
noon-3pm & 7-11.30pm.
★

Manu Alameda Dom Pedro II 317, Batel T 041 3044
4395, W restaurantemanu.com.br; map pp.546-547.
Tiny but acclaimed gourmet restaurant that offers a
contemporary Brazilian take on global heavyweights like
Noma and Alinea , where Chef Buffara learnt her trade,
with a choice of various tasting menus that change daily
- the plates are very small but the flavours are very exotic
(for example, wild boar with pickled strawberries, prime
rib with banana and manioc). Count on around R$86 for
four courses, R$129 for six and R$165 for eight (wine
pairing will almost double the price). Reservations
essential. Tues-Sat 8-11.30pm.
Mein Schatz Av Jaime Reis 18 T 41 3076 0121,
W meinschatz.com.br; map pp.546-547. Next door to
the Igreja do Rosário, offering a varied and affordable
menu of German and Brazilian dishes in quasi-Bavarian
surroundings; the popular starter plates of red and white
sausages are R$16 (mains from R$25 ). Mon-Sat
11.30am-2.30pm, Sun 11.30am-3.30pm.
Mercado Municipal Av Sete de Setembro 1865
T 41 3363 3764, W mercadomunicipaldecuritiba.com
.br; map pp.546-547. Curitiba's central market contains a
food court featuring cheap diners such as Box Curitiba
(Italian) and Skina das Delícias (Brazilian). Mon
7am-2pm, Tues-Sat 7am-6pm, Sun 7am-1pm.
★

★

Bouquet Garni Alameda Doutor Carlos de Carvalho
271 T 41 3223 8490, W restaurantebouquetgarni.com;
map pp.546-547. Excellent vegetarian restaurant offering
lunch buffets of chickpea stroganoff, spinach lasagne and
feijoada with onion, turnip and coconut (just R$20 Mon-Fri
and R$25 Sat-Sun). Daily 11am-3pm.
Caruso Empadas Rua Visconde do Rio Branco 877
T 41 3029 5411; map pp.546-547. It's surprisingly rare to
find a café with style and historic cachet in central Curitiba, but
this small place delivers, with a few tables inside and on the
street since 1954. It's best just for coffees and snacks (try the
puffy chicken empada ), but definitely offers more character
than the fast-food joints around the centre (mains R$17-20).
Mon-Fri 8.45am-8.30pm, Sat & Sun 8.45am-8pm.
★

Durski Av Jaime Reis 254 T 41 3225 7893, W durski
.com.br; map pp.546-547. Curitiba's only Ukrainian
restaurant, located in a renovated house in the heart of the
historic centre, looking onto Largo da Ordem. The food
(including Polish and Brazilian dishes) is attractively
presented and very tasty (try the delicious filet mignon with
mash and sautéed mushrooms in Madeira wine). Mains
R$60-90. Thurs 7.45-11pm, Fri & Sat 7.45-11.30pm.
Kawiarnia Kwakowiak Travessa Woellinto de Vianna
40 (on the lane between the Memorial da Imigração
Polonesa and the Linha Turismo bus stop); map p.544.
This small and very authentic Polish café (decked out in rustic
style) is located at the main entrance to the Bosque João
Paulo II (see p.549). The menu features items such as borscht
(R$13-22), bigosz (R$17) and pierogi (R$9.80), but it's the
large assortment of delicious Polish cakes ($4.50-7.20) that's
the real attraction. Daily 10am-9pm.
Madero Av Jaime Reis 254 T 41 3013 2300,
W restaurantemadero.com.br; map pp.546-547.
Popular burger and steak chain where the speciality is beef
in all its forms. The Argentine cuts are good, but their claim
to serve “the best burgers in the world” is a bit tongue-in-
cheek (the burger bar is further down on Praça Garibaldi
with slightly longer opening hours). The setting is elegant,
the wine list is outstanding and the food is quite expensive
(cheeseburgers are R$26.80 and filet mignon from R$35).
Tues-Thurs noon-2.30pm & 7.45-11pm, Fri noon-
2.30pm & 7.45pm-midnight, Sat noon-3.30pm &
7.45pm-midnight, Sun noon-10pm.

Montesquieu Rua Des. Westphalen 918 T 41 3233
7065; map pp.546-547. A legend with students and staff
at the technological university (UTFPR), who come to fill up
on the famous X-Pastel burgers (R$7), X-Montanha (burger
with meatloaf; R$7.50), and other cheap plates. No tables
- just sit around the bar. Mon-Fri 9.30am-9.30pm.
Schwarzwald Rua Claudino dos Santos 63 T 41 3223
2585, W bardoalemaocuritiba.com.br; map pp.546-
547. Also known as the Bar do Alemão (German bar), this
pub and restaurant has outdoor seating and a spacious,
kitsch interior. A popular evening meeting point for
students in Largo da Ordem, at the heart of the old town, it
serves excellent German food with cold beer. A plate of
pork knuckle and sausages for two will set you back R$40.
Daily 11am-2am.
Velho Madalosso Av Manoel Ribas 5852 T 41 3273
1014, W velhomadalosso.com.br; map p.544. Santa
Felicidade mainstay since 1963, with a mountainous
Italian-inspired buffet (around R$39), though it's more Rio
than Roma. It's a fun place to soak up the Felicidade vibe at
the weekends with live Italian classical singing on Sun.
Daily 11.30am-3pm & 7-11.30pm.
★

Zea Mais Rua Barão do Rio Branco 354 T 41 3232
3988, W zeamais.com.br; map pp.546-547. Part of
the San Juan Johnscher hotel (see opposite), an