Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
consulate in Santa Cruz before leaving.
Onward travel by train Train tickets for Santa Cruz
should be bought at La Brasilena train station in Puerto
Quijarro, 15min by bus from the Bolivian immigration
o ce at the border. There are several options when
travelling by train: the regular Tren Regional is the cheapest
and departs once a day from Monday to Saturday (19.30hr);
the Expreso Oriental leaves on Tuesday, Thursday and
Sunday and takes 16 hours; Ferrobus is the fanciest and
most expensive of the three, leaving on Tuesday, Thursday
and Saturday, taking 14 hours. If travelling on the regular
service, bring food onboard, as well as insect repellent, as
the lights of the carriages can attract insects at night.
Drinking water and a torch are also useful. As timetables
vary considerably, check at the station in Corumbá or
Quijarro at least a couple of days in advance. It's worth
going to Quijarro the day before departure to actually make
your booking.
Services Money can be changed at decent rates at
the border.
BY CAR
Car rental Localiza is at the airport (8am-8pm; T 67
3232 6000); Unidas, Rua Drei Mariano 633 (Mon-Sat
8am-6pm; T 67 3231 3124), has reliable cars that can be
taken out of Brazil, but must be returned to Corumbá.
TO BOLIVIA
Entry requirements Crossing into or out of Bolivia from
Corumbá is a slightly disjointed procedure. Leaving Brazil,
you should get an exit stamp from the Polícia Federal at
Praça da República 51 in Corumbá (easiest before 11am
daily or between 2pm and 5pm Mon-Fri), before picking
up a Bolivian visa (if you need one) from the consulate at
Porto Carrero 1650 ( T 67 3231 5605). After that, it's a
matter of taking the bus (from the Praça Independência
on Rua Dom Aquino Corréa) for the 10km to the border,
checking through Bolivian immigration and receiving your
passport entry stamp. Entering Brazil from Bolivia is
essentially the same procedure in reverse, although US
citizens should remember to pick up visas in the Brazilian
7
INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information Tourist information can be obtained
from FUNDTUR (Fundação de Turismo do Pantanal), Rua
Domingos Sahib 570, down at the port (Mon 1-6pm,
Tues-Fri 8.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm; T 67 3231 2886,
W corumba.ms.gov.br), or try the Casa do Artesão
(see p.460).
receipts for any money or valuables you deposit with a tour
company or hotel; there have been reports of problems
with this kind of practice in Corumbá.
Mutum Turismo Rua Frei Mariano 17 T 67 3231 1818,
W mutumturismo.com.br. Deals with flights and
ticketing, and organizes cruises to the Pantanal. Also has a
list of approved Pantanal guides.
Pérola do Pantanal Rua Manoel Cavassa 255 T 67
3231 1460, W peroladopantanal.com.br. Agents for
high-end cruises to the Pantanal from Corumbá. Operates
fishing-based tours too.
TOUR AGENCIES
Budget Pantanal tours are run by all of the cheap hotels
around Rua Delamare, whose touts will probably find you
as soon as you get off the bus. Make sure you get authorized
ACCOMMODATION
Hotels in Corumbá vary considerably but their sheer quantity means you should have no trouble finding a room, even from
August to October. Out of season, especially January to Easter, there are heavy discounts all round, and prices can be
bargained even lower. The most centrally located for shops and the port, and so noisiest at night, is the clutch of cheap
lodgings around Rua Delamare , west of Praça da República; these tend to be very popular with backpackers.
Hotel Laura Vicuña Rua Cuiabá 775 T 67 3231 5874.
A peaceful place within walking distance of the shops and
restaurants. Rooms are very neat and tidy in a traditional
fashion, although bathr ooms a re rather basic. All rooms
have phone, TV and a/c. R$130
Hotel Salette Rua Delamare 893 T 67 3231 6246,
W salettehotel.com.br. This simple but very clean hotel
near the port is a popular choice among those on a budget.
Staff are friendly and helpf ul too. Rooms either have fans or
a/c, and ancient TVs. R$90
Hotel Santa Rita Rua Dom Aquino Corréa 860
T 67 3231 5453. Rooms are clean and airy at this good-
value hotel and the more expensive ones come with a/c
and TV. There's also a reasonable on-site restaurant. R$140
Nacional Palace Hotel Rua América 936 T 67 3234
6000, W hnacional.com.br. Pretty much top of the
range in Corumbá. It's convenient and has a pool
complete with water slide (non-residents can use it for
R$25) as well as gym equipment, a barbecue area and a
snooker table. R$230
Santa Mônica Palace Hotel Rua Antônio Maria Coelho
345 T 67 3234 3000, W hsantamonica.com.br. Corumbá's
largest hotel and best mid-range option in an excellent
location. Offers good value for money: the rooms are old
school but come with all mod cons including a/c and fridges,
and the added luxuries of a pool (non-residents can use it for
R$15), sauna and riverboats to rent. Ask for a roo m that
doesn't look out onto the street, as these can be noisy. R$185
 
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