Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
governor of Paraguay, it encountered vampire bats, stingrays, biting ants and plagues
of mosquitoes. And while it doesn't seem quite so bad today, it's easy to understand
why air conditioning is such big business here. It was Corumbá's unique location on
the old rail link between the Andes and the Atlantic that originally brought most
travellers to the town, but, ironically, the same swamp that deterred European
invaders for so long has rapidly become an attraction, at the same time that the
Brazilian part of the rail link has been closed down.
Praça da Independência and around
Corumbá's life revolves around its
port
, while its transport connections are at the other
end of town around the rodoviária and airport; if you're intending to stay more than one
night, the port end is your best bet. Within a few blocks of the riverfront you'll find the
Praça da Independência
, a large, shaded park with ponds, a children's playground and a
few unusual installations dotted around: a streamroller, imported from England around
1921, whose first job was flattening Avenida General Rondon, and an antique water
wheel, also English, which served in a sugar factory until 1932. Early in the day, the
praça
is alive with tropical birds, and by evening it's crowded with couples, family
groups and gangs of children relaxing as the temperature begins to drop. The large but
otherwise unimpressive church on this square is useful as a prominent landmark to help
you get your bearings in this very flat, grid-patterned city.
A block away from the Praça da Independência is the smaller
Praça da República
.
On this square stands the stark late nineteenth-century Igreja Matriz Nossa Senhora
da Candelária.
7
Museu de Corumbá
Instituto Luiz de Albuquerque, Rua Delamare 939 • Mon-Fri 7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5.30pm • Free
Facing the local bus terminal is the fascinating
Museu de Corumbá
, which encompasses
a collection of indigenous and local artwork, artefacts from the colonial era and an
archive of photos that depict Corumbá's colourful history.
Museu de História do Pantanal (MUHPAN)
Manoel Cassava 275 • Tues-Sat 1-6pm • Free •
T
67 3232 0303,
W
muhpan.org.br
Corumbá's star attraction is the
Museu de História do Pantanal
, better known as
MUHPAN
. This attractive museum housed in a nineteenth-century building by the port
features permanent and temporary exhibitions that focus on the Pantanal's identity.
Through informative displays, it explores the Pantanal's archeology and the history
of human occupation in the region, and the relationship between the two.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
CORUMBÁ AND AROUND
Destinations
Campo Grande via Anastácio/Aquidauana
and Miranda (12 daily; 7hr; change in Campo Grande for
most onward destinations); Rio de Janeiro (4 daily; 32hr);
São Paulo (4 daily; 26hr).
BY PLANE
The airport (
T
67 3231 3322) is a R$30 taxi ride west of the
city centre.
Destinations
Daily flights (TAM and Pantanal Linhas
Aéreas) to Campo Grande, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo.
BY BOAT
There are plenty of boats waiting on the riverfront off Rua
Manoel Cavassa that will take you into the Pantanal swamp
or to Bolivia. Ask around at the numerous o
ces on the
waterfront or arrange your boat trip in advance with one of
the many travel agencies in town.
BY BUS
The rodoviária is close to the train station on Rua Porto
Carreiro (
T
67 3231 2033) and is served by daily buses from
Campo Grande, São Paulo and even further afield. From the
rodoviária, it's a 15min walk into town, or there are buses
and taxis (R$15) plying the route.
