Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
PIRANHAS AND STINGRAYS
One thing definitely worth bearing in mind if you are swimming anywhere in the Amazon is
that piranhas and stingrays ( raia ) are common. Piranhas are actually much less of a problem
than you would expect. Forget any films you have seen; they don't attack in shoals, prefer still
water to currents and no death or serious injury from piranha attack is on record. Nevertheless,
they can give you a nasty bite and are indeed attracted to blood. They frequent particular
spots, which locals all know about and avoid, so ask for advice.
Stingrays are more of a problem. They love warm, shallow water and are so well
camouflaged that they are practically invisible. If you tread on one, it will whip its sting into
your ankle, causing a deep gash and agonizing pain for at least 24 hours. However, stingrays
really hate noise, crowds, waves and strong currents, and so are rarely found on regularly
used beaches, such as Alter do Chão, near Santarém, but off the beaten track, they are an
ever-present threat. You can minimize the danger by wearing canvas boots or trainers and by
splashing and throwing sand and stones into shallow water if you intend to swim there.
have better access to wildlife, your best bet is one of the tour operators in Alter do
Chão; an excellent option is a visit to the Floresta Nacional do Tapajós , a national park
some 64km out of town down the Santarém-Cuiabá highway.
Alter do Chão
The lovely beach resort of ALTER DO CHÃO is a beautiful bay in the Rio Tapajós
overlooked by two easily climbable hills, one the shape of a church altar, giving the
place its name. In recent years Alter do Chão has become something of a cult
destination on the alternative travel circuit.
From July to November the bay is fringed by white-sand beaches , which combine
with the deep blue of the Tapajós to give it a Mediterranean look. During the week
you'll almost have the place to yourself, while weekends see the tranquillity shattered,
as santarenhos head out en masse for the beach - be careful if you're heading back to
Santarém on a weekend afternoon as many drivers on the road will be drunk.
Ilha do Amor
The stunning Ilha do Amor is a white-sand beach just across from Alter do Chão. In the
dry season the sandbank is accessible either by wading or by rowing boat (5min; R$3/
person), and laidback shaded restaurants provide the fried fish and chilled beer essential to
the full enjoyment of the scene. It's well worth taking the time to climb up to the Morro de
Cruzeiro viewpoint, from where there are breathtaking views of the Tapajós River, Lago
Verde and the Amazon rainforest.
Lago Verde
Alter do Chão sits at the shores of the beautiful Lago Verde , surrounded by verdant
forest rich in fauna including monkeys, macaws, agoutis and armadillos. The lake has
some lovely secluded spots perfect for a swim. The best way to explore the area is
through a guided tour with one of the agencies in Alter do Chão; alternatively, you
can explore the lake with one of the boatmen along the waterfront.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ALTER DO CHÃO
By bus From Santarém's Praça Tiradentes you can catch a bus to Alter do Chão (hourly; 45min; R$2.50).
TOURS
Many tour operators organize reasonably priced forest treks, fishing expeditions, boat trips and other excursions in the area.
Prices start from R$60 for a two-hour boat trip on the Lago Verde . A fun way to explore town is to rent a tandem bike (R$20/
hr); Santos Locacões at Copa Cabana 150 (daily 8am-11pm) has a range of tandem bikes as well as a six-seater cycle (R$60).
 
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