Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
nineteenth centuries (some of the collection may transfer to the new cathedral
museum). As with most museums in town, you'll be chaperoned by enthusiastic
guides (Portuguese only).
Ilha do São Luís: the beaches
The north coast of São Luís island is blessed with a chain of excellent
beaches
, most
of which can be reached by bus (R$2.10; Sun R$1.05) from the
Terminal de Integração
in the centre of town (you pay as you enter the terminal; bus platforms are clearly
labelled with destinations). Though all of them look enticing, there are a few catches:
the water around here is not the cleanest, so swimming is not a great idea; the tides can
be a real pain - during low tide the water can recede for kilometres; the surf can be
dangerous and people drown every month; and swimming after sunset is not a good
idea, as there are occasional attacks by sharks attracted by the kitchen waste dumped by
ships offshore. Assuming this little list doesn't put you off, all the main beaches can be
tranquil places to while away the afternoon on the (usually clean) sands, or to enjoy a
cold beer in the ubiquitous beach bars.
Ponta da Areia
is the closest beach to the city centre, located by the ruins of the Forte
São Marcos, though the water here is polluted. Some 8km out of town, the dune beach
of
Calhau
is larger and more scenic (though it tends to be windy and a hangout for
kitesurfers); when the tide is out there is a lovely walk along the sands from Ponta da
Areia, two hours' leisurely stroll west. After Calhau comes
Olho d'Agua
, 12km out and
equally fine, close to the dunes but also windy and well developed with condos and
beach kiosks.
Araçagi
, 19km from town, is the loveliest beach of all, an expansive
stretch of sand that's also studded with bars and restaurants. It's served by hourly
buses, but if you want to make it back the same day, you'll need to rent a car.
Raposa
,
a simple village on a beach, 30km and an hour away by bus from Praça Deodoro or
Rua da Paz, is the end of the line.
4
São José do Ribamar
The Ilha do São Luís isn't just beaches - the island also supports several thriving
fishing ports, the most appealing of which is the relaxed, friendly town of
SÃO JOSÉ DO
RIBAMAR
, which you can reach on the bus marked “Ribamar” from Praça Deodoro.
It's 32km to São José, about an hour's drive, a lovely route through thick palm forest
and small hills. The bus deposits you in the small town centre, where straggling houses
on a headland have sweeping views of a fine bay. São José is an important fishing town,
as well as being a centre of skilled boat-building by traditional methods - you can see
the yards, with the half-finished ribs of surprisingly large boats, behind the houses
running inland from the small landing quay and large beach.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
SÃO LUÍS
By plane
A taxi from the Aeroporto Internacional
Marechal Cunha Machado (
T
98 3217 6101), to
centro
histórico
(14km), is a fixed-rate R$43 (check the current
price with the dispatchers outside the terminal).
Alternatively, you can catch the bus outside marked “São
Cristóvão”. All the major car rental companies have desks in
the terminal and there are several ATMs (HSBC, Santander
and Banco do Brasil among them).
By bus
From the rodoviária, a taxi to the
centro histórico
costs about R$30. Alternatively, local buses (R$2.10)
run between the rodoviária and the Terminal de
Integração Praia Grande, the bus station by the
waterfront in the centre.
Destinations
Belém (1-2 daily; 13hr); Brasília (1 daily;
36hr); Fortaleza (3 daily; 18-20hr); Imperatriz (3 daily;
11hr 30min); Parnaíba (3 daily; 8-9hr); Teresina (8 daily;
7hr 30min).
By ferry
Passenger ferries to Alcântara (see p.321)
depart the Cais da Praia Grande terminal in the centre
and cost R$12-14 one-way. Departure times vary
according to the tides (which can vary considerably, but
there is usually an early departure 6.30-7am and an
afternoon ferry 3-4pm - check the day before). Boats
usually return to São Luís at 4pm. Four companies share
the route, including Iate Imperador (
T
98 9105 9301).
The crossing is rarely rough, but the ferries are little
more than ageing fishing boats.
