Travel Reference
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upstairs walls. The dorms are clean and colourful, equipped
with both a/c and fan, and there' s also a co mmuna l kitchen.
Breakfast included. Dorms R$35 ; doubles R$100
sea views, a/c and cable TV. R$215
Hotel La Maison Av Desembarador Moreira 201
T 85 3242 7017, W hotellamaison.com.br. This
thirteen-room pousada is in a tastefully converted house
just a few blocks from the beach; the rooms are pleasant
and have TVs, telephones and a /c. Fren ch and English are
spoken and parking is available. R$150
Hotel Marina Praia Rua Paula Barros 44 T 85 3242
7734, W hotelmarinapraia.com.br. A small, spick-and-
span hotel, little bigger than a house and less than a
block from the beach in the Nautico section of Praia
Meireles. It somehow fits 25 apartments into its
comfortable an d colou rful interior, and there's also a little
patio out front. R$215
Pousada Arara Av Aboliçao 3806, Mucuripe T 85 3263
2277, W hotelarara.com.br. A friendly hotel in a safe
setting, although it's on a main road so not too quiet.
Rooms are clean and comfortable although the owners
have a penchant for adorning their walls with tropical
sunset prints. There's a nice enough pool at the back, as
well as a little barbecue area. Breakfast included. R$140
PRAIA DE IRACEMA
Hotel Sonata de Iracema Av Beira Mar 848 T 85 4006
1600, W sonatadeiracema.com.br. Gorgeous renovated
mansion and tower on the seafront, with bright, clean a/c
rooms with tiled floors, rooftop p ool, coc ktail bar, stunning
ocean views and a modern gym. R$270
PRAIA DO MEIRELES
Fortaleza Mar Hotel Rua Antônio Lima 126 T 85 3248
8000, W fortalezamarhotel.com.br. Excellent deal; close
to the beach, with a small but lovely pool, simply f urnishe d
a/c rooms with TV and hearty breakfast included. R$165
Hotel Luzeiros Av Beira Mar 2600 T 85 4006 8585,
W luzeirosfortaleza.com.br. Stylish ocean-front hotel
overlooking the beach, with fabulous rooftop pool and
rooms featuring a cool contemporary design with purple,
beige or red interiors and white tile floors, balconies with
EATING
Downtown, Praça do Ferreira offers a few por quilo lanchonetes (self-service cafeterias), and Iracema has a few good
restaurants, while the Centro Dragão do Mar has several pavement cafés overflowing with people having fun in the
evenings. The beaches all have a smattering of good restaurants as well as beach barracas offering some of the best deals
on seafood. In two or three small streets around Rua dos Tabajaras on Praia de Iracema you'll find a score of brightly
coloured bars and restaurants.
4
CENTRO
Café L'Escale Rua Floriano Peixoto 587 T 85 3253
1976. Excellent local pit stop right on Praça do Ferreira (in
an Art Nouveau building dating from 1914), with the usual
selection of salgados , drinks and self-service buffet
options. Mon-Thurs 8am-9pm, Sat 8am-4pm.
PRAIA DE IRACEMA
La Marea Rua dos Tremembés 100 T 85 3219 2284.
Lovely two-tier wooden chalet-like place in the heart of the
action, nominally a Spanish restaurant but serving
primarily Brazilian seafood classics such as moqueca
(R$29.90), filet mignon (R$25.90) and lobster specials
(R$54.90). Daily 6pm-1.30am.
Varanda Tropical Av Monsenhor Tabosa 714 T 85
3219 5195. Open-fronted restaurant on the main road
serving a solid range of meat, fish and seafood options,
many of which will fill two bellies; if you're alone, try
the shrimps in garlic (R$9.90). The buffet is R$27/kg.
Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-5pm.
Café Passeio Rua Dr. João Moreira, Praça dos
Mártires T 84 3063 8782. Elegant restaurant occupying
the old-fashioned kiosks in the park with outdoor
seating. It's a self-service Brazilian buffet during
the week, with feijoada on Sat and a bigger buffet on
Sun. Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm, Sat noon-5pm, Sun
noon-4pm.
L'ô Restaurante Av Pessoa Anta 217 T 85 3265 2288,
W lorestaurante.com.br. Cool, slick modern restaurant
combining Art Deco and contemporary design with a menu
of highly creative nouvelle Brazilian cuisine - think smoked
haddock risotto and “aphrodisiac prawns” in cognac.
Mon-Sat 7pm-last customer, Fri & Sat noon-3.30pm,
Sun noon-3.30pm.
Santa Clara Café Orgânico Rua Dragão do Mar 81
(Centro Dragão do Mar) T 85 3219 6900, W www
.cafesantaclara.com.br. Try the popular espresso
(R$3.25) or sip on a chocolate-fringed cappuccino (R$8) at
Fortaleza's best coffee joint. Tues-Sun 3-10pm.
PRAIA DO MEIRELES
50 Sabores Av Beira Mar 3958 T 85 3032 5850,
W 50sabores.com.br. This decades-old Fortaleza
institution offers almost double the titular fifty flavours of
ice cream, all of which change with the seasons, even if it
feels like the weather never does. Try the plum, caipirinha
or maracujá (R$12 for two huge scoops). One of six
branches spread around town. Daily 9am-11.30pm.
Balu Doces Av Monsenhor Tabosa 1717 T 85 3248
2200, W baludoces.com.br. Long-standing bakery and
café specializing in cakes and irresistible desserts: creamy
 
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