Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
NORTH OF NATAL: THE LITORAL NORTE
North of Natal the Litoral Norte runs for some 400km to the Ceará border, lined with massive
dunes and beaches almost the whole way - indeed, it's possible to travel all the way to
Fortaleza by beach buggy (see box, p.291). Many of the best beaches - such as Genipabu
(see box, p.291) - can be visited on day-trips from Natal, though travelling independently is
also possible. The main bus operator up here is Expresso Cabral ( W expressocabral.com.br).
These are the highlights (listed in km north of central Natal):
Jacumã (30km). Small village surrounded by giant dunes, with a small lagoon where visitors
can indulge in “Aerobunda” (basically a zipline into the water).
Maracajaú Reefs (52km). These spectacular coral formations lie 7km off the coast (accessed
by boat from the small village of Maracajaú; W maracajau-rn.com.br). Cabral runs buses to the
village from Natal (Mon-Sat 10.15am & 1.15pm; Sun 6.30am), and on to Touros.
Touros (85km). The closest South American city to Africa (2,865km) is a working fishing port,
best known for Brazil's largest lighthouse, the Farol do Calcanhar (62m). Cabral runs buses
five times daily from Natal, and on to São Miguel do Gostoso.
São Miguel do Gostoso (100km). Friendly town amidst gorgeous, generally empty
white-sand beaches with plenty of seafood restaurants, cheap pousadas and world-class
kitesurf and windsurfing school Clube Kauli Seadi ( W clubekauliseadi.com). Cabral runs buses
from Natal and Touros three times daily.
Galinhos (160km). Remote village stranded dramatically on a sandbar, with long swathes of
empty beach on all sides. Access is from the tiny port of Pratagil, where boats regularly shuttle
across the lagoon ($3; 10min). Pratagil is connected to Natal by Cabral bus (2 times daily; 3hr).
4
DIRECTORY
Internet For the internet, Cook.com Cyber Café is at Av
Baía dos Golfinhos 888 (R$3/hr).
Money and exchange Banco do Brasil at Av Baía dos
Golfinhos 369 is the only bank with an international ATM
(daily 8am-10pm).
Ceará
The state of Ceará , covering a vast area but with fewer than nine million inhabitants, is
primarily known for its mind-blowing beaches - it has a coastline of around 600km, a
constant ribbon of mostly unspoiled and deserted sands from end to end. The area has
strong and predictable winds which, combined with good surf, means it's a windsurfer's
paradise, and many small fishing villages now depend on the tourist dollar. The state's
capital, Fortaleza , is the largest, most modern and cosmopolitan city in the Northeast
after Recife and Salvador. In contrast to the city's skyscraping, futuristic architecture, the
fun beach towns of Canoa Quebrada and Jericoacoara are some of the most compelling
destinations in the country, where massive dunes and rustling coconut palms line the
coast to the horizon. Inland Ceará contains more surprises: the flat and rather dull plains
of Rio Grande do Norte gradually give way to ranges of hills, culminating in the extreme
west of the state in the highlands and lush cloud forest of the Serra da Ibiapaba , the only
place in Brazil where you can stand in jungle and look down on desert.
Fortaleza
The languid state capital of Ceará, FORTALEZA is a sprawling city of over 2.5 million
inhabitants, an oddly provincial place compared to Northeast rival Recife, despite its size.
The city itself contains an odd smattering of sights, though there's nothing special to see,
and it's the beaches, bar scene and shopping opportunities that make it an obvious pit
stop on the road north - there's plenty of good artesanato to be had, notably lace and
leather, and Fortaleza is the largest centre for the manufacture and sale of hammocks in
Brazil. The city has initiated a spate of new projects designed to increase its tourist appeal
 
 
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