Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
restaurants on
Praia Mucugê
, the easier it is to find a peaceful spot. Compared to Seguro,
however, it retains a lot more charm, with narrow lanes and chilled-out
pousadas
.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
ARRAIAL D'AJUDA AND AROUND
By ferry/bus
Catch the ferry from the centre of Porto
Seguro for the 10min journey across the Rio Buranhém
(24hr; R$2.50). From the other side, buses (R$2.50) climb
the hill and drop you in the centre of town. Don't stay on
the bus after this or you'll find yourself making a very
boring round-trip.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Arraial d'Ajuda Hostel
Rua do Campo 94
T
73 3575
1192,
W
arraialdajudahostel.com.br.
The local HI hostel
offers clean dorms and doubles with a/c 10pm-7am only (or
R$12 per 24hr) plu
s free wi-fi. P
rices for
members are give
n
in brackets. Dorms
R$48 (R$40)
; doubles
R$160 (R$120)
Pousada Marambaia
Alameda dos Flamboyants 116
T
73 3575 1275,
W
hotelmarambaia.com.br.
Clean,
chalet-style rooms around a peaceful, lush courtyard,
complete with sw
immin
g pool and gently jangling
cowbells. Free wi-fi.
R$180
Pousada Pé-na-Estrada
Rua Jequitibá 60
T
73
3575 3878,
W
penaestradapousada.com.br.
mid-range option close to the Praia Mucugê with spotless
rooms, fr
ee wi-fi
and flat-screen TVs. A big breakfast is
included
.
R$150
Restaurante Do Paulo Pescador
Praça São Braz 116
T
73 3575 1242,
W
paulopescador.com.br.
Justly
popular Italian-Brazilian emporium serving a fusion of
spaghetti with
moqueca
, lots of fresh seafood and roast
meats.
Wed-Sun noon-10pm.
Rosa dos Ventos
Alameda dos Flamboyants 24
T
73 3575 1271.
Lauded open-air restaurant with fresh
seafood, excellent goulash and amazing
apfelstrudel
(seriously). Count on R$40/person.
Daily 4pm-midnight.
3
Excellent
ON THE ROAD TO ESPÍRITO SANTO
Heading south between Salvador and Vitória (see p.183) and Rio (see p.53), having your
own car affords a lot more flexibility to explore the numerous beaches and villages along
the southern coast
of Bahia.
CARAÍVA
If you want to get away from civilization in this part of Bahia you have to go further south to
Caraíva on the banks of the Rio Caraíva, not accessible by road (cars are parked on the other
side of the river, which is crossed by canoe). Two buses (2hr) a day leave from Arraial and
Trancoso, but it's a bumpy ride on 32km of dirt road. Once there, you'll find superb beaches,
a few rustic places to stay, some good food and plenty of peace and quiet.
CARAVELAS
On the banks of the Rio Caravelas, in the extreme south of Bahia, lies Caravelas, an attractive
colonial port town, and nearby Praia do Grauçá. Both are - despite the growth of tourism -
very relaxing places. Caravelas is also the jumping-off point for the Parque Nacional Marinho
dos Abrolhos.
PARQUE NACIONAL MARINHO DOS ABROLHOS
The main reason people visit the southern region of Bahia is to see the extraordinary profusion
of marine and bird life in the Parque Nacional Marinho dos Abrolhos, an archipelago of five
islands lying 72km from Caravelas (landing is only allowed on one island, Siriba). Among the
clear waters and coral reefs here live all kinds of rare fish, sea turtles and birds, and between July
and early November the waters are home to humpback whales taking refuge from the Antarctic
winter. Various agents in Caravelas can arrange day-trips for around R$320 (3hr one-way); try
Horizonte Aberto at Av das Palmeiras 313 (
T
73 3297 1474,
W
horizonteaberto.com.br).
ACCOMMODATION
Memoan Hostel
Caraíva
T
61 9275 7649,
W
memoanhostel.com.br.
Relatively new hostel
with clean dorms and
doubl
es, free
wi-fi
and
communal kitchen. Dorms
R$35
; doubles
R$70
Pousada Liberdade
Rua da Baleia, Caravelas 333
T
73 3297 2076,
W
pousadaliberdade.com.br.
Spavious, well-equipped (a/c, fridge, TV) modern chalets
as well as
more ba
sic doubles, just a few minutes by car
from town.
R$120
