Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
back in 1551, but most of what you see today dates from the eighteenth century). The
ruins are still an impressive sight and there's a restored chapel and small visitor centre.
Projeto Tamar
Av Farol Garcia D'Ávila • Daily: March-Oct 9am-5.30pm; Nov-Feb 8.30am-6pm • R$16 •
T
71 3676 1067,
W
projetotamar.org.br
One of the highlights of Praia do Forte is a visit to the local headquarters of
Projeto
Tamar
, the conservation organization working to save and protect Brazil's threatened
THE LITORAL VERDE: ON THE ROAD TO RECIFE
Renting a car one-way is becoming a popular option for travelling
between Salvador and
Recife
, affording a lot more flexibility, especially when it comes to exploring the coast of Bahia
(which is a lot more enticing than the interior). North of Praia do Forte the coast is generally
known as the
Litoral Verde
, with a bridge across the Rio Jacaré now making driving to Acaraju
and Sergipe (see p.250) easier than ever before on BA-099 and SE-100. Travelling by bus is a hassle
but possible, though the Linha Verde (
T
71 3460 2050) buses from Salvador tend to stick to the
main road (BA-099); just tell the driver where you want to get off then walk or rent a
moto-taxi
.
IMBASSAÍ
There are beautiful palm-fringed beaches just 16km further north of Praia do Forte, around
Imbassaí
; they tend to be less busy, making it easier to find cheaper accommodation. The
town is separated from the beach by the Rio Barroso and a giant sand dune (there's a
footbridge across), 2km from the highway.
Pousadas
are available on both sides, with the
beach side obviously more appealing.
DIOGO
For a peaceful place to stay, head to the village of Diogo, 5km north of Imbassaí; look for the
right turn at Km 69 on BA-099 (signposted). The road turns into track by the time it reaches
the village, 1km further along; from the village, a footpath crosses the river and leads through
some attractive dunes before reaching a massive, usually empty, beach, with a few
barracas
and rustic eating spots.
SÍTIO DO CONDE
Some 85km north of Diogo on BA-099 lies the small town of Conde, with the beach resort of
Sítio do Conde another 10km east on BA-233. It's a good base for another dazzling section of
coast, from Barra do Itariri, 12km south, to Seribinha, 13km north.
MANGUE SECO
Around 50km north of Conde on a sandy spit that juts out between the Rio Real (the Sergipe
border) and the ocean, Mangue Seco is blissfully remote, only accessible by boat or 4WD along
bumpy tracks (the village is thought to have inspired Jorge Amado's novel
Tieta
). Surrounded
by vast white-sand dunes and empty swathes of beach, the village is connected to Pontal
(Sergipe) by boat (10min; R$60), another village connected to the town of Estância (Sergipe)
by bus just twice a day (taxis from R$60). From Estância there are regular onward services to
Aracaju (see p.250), in the Northeast, with Coopertalse (R$9;
W
coopertalse.com.br).
ACCOMMODATION
Cosy Pousada O Forte
Praia da Costa, Mangue
Seco
T
75 3445 9039,
W
pousadaoforte.com.
Luxurious option witrh twelve eco-friendly bungalows
with a/c, TV, DVD player and free wi-fi. Also offers
private t
ransfe
rs from Salvador for R$400 for up to four
people.
R$270
Pousada Luar Praia
Praia de Imbassaí
T
71 3677
1030,
W
luardapraia.com.br.
Good choice, right on
the beach, with simple but comfy a/c rooms and
buffet
breakfast. Pick-up service from Salvador R$180.
R$170
3
Pousada Talismã
Sítio do Conde (on the beach)
T
75 3449 1196,
W
pousadatalisma.com.
Excellent
beachfront option, w
ith just
five cosy rooms, all with TV,
fridge and free wi-fi.
R$100
Pousada Too Cool na Bahia
Diogo
T
71 9952
2190,
W
toocoolnabahia.com.br.
Popular option in
the village of Diogo, with stylish and comfortable
chalet a/c acc
ommo
dation with views of the sea and
Rio Imbassaí.
R$160
