Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ondina
T
71 2103 7100,
W
othon.com.br; map p.207.
The grande dame of Salvador beach resorts is a little past
its prime, but still occupies a stunning location between
two narrow beaches, with a huge pool, mountainous
breakfast buffet and
ageing
but comfortable room, all with
dramatic sea views.
R$250
character. Rooms are comfy with a/c rooms and cable. For
some reason, taxi drivers have di
culty finding it even
though it's on a main road.
Wi-fi i
is free, but access to
computer terminals is R$8/hr.
R$190
PITUBA
Verdemar
Av Otávio Mangabeira 513
T
71 3797
4333,
W
verdemar.com.br; map p.207.
Comfortable
hotel set in one of the cheapest of all the beach areas,
Pituba, and handily close to the airport, although a little
far from t
he cen
tre. Plain but comfy rooms have a/c and
cable TV.
R$190
RIO VERMELHO
★
Hotel Catharina Paraguaçu
Rua João Gomes 128
T
71 3334 0089,
W
hotelcatharinaparaguacu.com.br;
map p.207.
One of Bahia's most elegant hotels, in a
beautifully restored nineteenth-century residence full of
EATING
Eating out is one of the major pleasures of Salvador, and the local cuisine (
comida baiana
) is deservedly famous. There's
a huge range of restaurants and, although Cidade Alta has an increasing number of stylish, expensive places, it's still quite
possible to eat well for significantly less than R$25, though easier to spend R$50 plus, including drinks. Especially at
Barra
and
Rio Vermelho
, the seafront promenade is lined with bars, cafés and restaurants.
3
top restaurants, decorated with local paintings and worth a
splurge. Serves mainly Bahian dishes; expect to pay at least
R$75 per head.
Mon-Sat noon-4pm & 6-11pm.
Conventual
Rua do Carmo 1, Santo Antônio
T
71 3327
84000; map pp.208-209.
Based in the cloisters of the
exclusive
Convento do Carmo
, just a short stroll from the
heart and heat of the Pelourinho, this is probably the city's
most expensive restaurant. It has a mainly Portuguese
menu, full of excellently prepared and presented dishes,
plus there's a large and fancy bar. The best reason to eat
here, however, is to enjoy the ambience of the leafy and
crafted stone courtyard and cloisters.
Daily 7am-11pm.
★
CENTRO HISTÓRICO
Bahia Café
Praça da Sé 22
T
71 3322 1266; map
pp.208-209.
Great café with an excellent atmosphere,
tasty food (from pizzas to
moquecas
), smoothies, cocktails
and coffee. There's also free wi-fi access and airy windows
opening onto the street.
Daily 8am-11pm.
Café Conosco
Rua da Ordem Terceira do São Francisco 4,
Pelourinho
T
71 8111 3538; map pp.208-209.
Attractive
café set in an early eighteenth-century house; good coffee,
quiche and cakes (R$4-5) handmade by owner Nilza
Ribeiro, free wi-fi and a tranquil escape from the hubbub of
the streets.
Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-4pm.
Casa da Gamboa
Rua João de Deus 32, Pelourinho
T
71 3321 3393; map pp.208-209.
One of the district's
Jardim das Delicias
Rua João de Deus 12,
Pelourinho
T
71 3321 1449; map pp.208-209.
Fantastic
ACARAJÉ: FIVE OF THE BEST
Salvador's signature street food is
acarajé
, the delicious deep-fried black-eyed pea dough
stuffed with seafood (shrimps), peanuts and spicy sauces (
vatapá
). Vendors who serve
acarajé
are generally women (“
baianas
”), dressed in traditional all-white cotton dresses and
headscarves (city statutes mean they have to wear this costume).
Acarajé
is usually R$5-6 per
serving. Rivalry is fierce between stalls, with local competitions to name the best each year:
★
Acarajé da Cira
Rua Aristídes Milton, Posto 12,
Itapuã
T
71 3249 4170; see map p.205.
It's a long taxi
ride from town but this is the locals' pick for the best
acarajé
in the city year after year. There is a second branch
at Largo da Mariquita, Rio Vermelho.
Daily 10am-11pm.
Acarajé da Dinha
Rua João Gomes 25, Largo de
Santana, Rio Vermelho
T
71 3334 4350; see map
p.207.
Famous stall in Rio Vermelho's main plaza that is
packed each night - has long queues and not quite up
to the hype, but a fun, buzzy place to snack with a cold
beer all the same.
Mon-Fri 4-11.30pm, Sat & Sun
11am-midnight.
Acarajé da Mary
Praça de Se; see map pp.208-209.
The stall most tourists are likely to visit, but it's actually
not bad and often very spicy, washed down with some
fresh
agua de coco
.
Daily 11am-7pm.
Acarajé de Regina
Largo de Santana, Rio Vermelho
T
71 3232 7542; see map p.207.
Friendly competition
to
Dinha
is provided by this similarly fêted stall.
Daily
5-11pm.
Acarajé da Rosineide e Neidiane
Azevedo Fernandes
(in front of Instituto Mauá), Barra
T
71 3347 3899;
see map p.216.
Best of many vendors along Barra beach.
Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat & Sun 10am-6pm.
