Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Cidade Baixa
Cidade Baixa
, the part of the city at the foot of the bluff in the
centro histórico
, takes in
the docks, the old harbour - dominated by the circular sixteenth-century
Forte de São
Marcelo
(sadly off limits) offshore -
the ferry terminals
and the main city
market
. Once
the commercial heart of the city, “Comércio”, as the neighbourhood is also known, is
now the most neglected part of the city. Restoration of some of the older buildings has
begun, but most of the neighbourhood is shabby, uninteresting and best avoided.
Mercado Modelo
Praça Visconde de Cayrú 250 • Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-2pm • Free •
T
71 4102 9414,
W
mercadomodelobahia.com.br
There is one essential stop in Cidade Baixa: the
Mercado Modelo
. This is a huge,
covered arts and crafts market, always crowded with Bahians as well as tourists and
with the best selection of
artesanato
in the city. Not everything is cheap, so it helps to
have the confidence to haggle. Some of the nicest souvenirs are the painted statues
of candomblé deities - look for signs saying
artigos religiosos
. Even if you don't buy
anything, the Neoclassical building is a joy, a spacious nineteenth-century cathedral to
commerce; constructed around 1861 as the city customs house, this building became
the market in 1971, after the original burnt down. There is always something going
on here, with displays of capoeira common (and donations expected). here is an
information of
ce
sometimes staffed to the left of the front entrance, while upstairs you
will find a couple of good
restaurants
and at the back several cheap
bars
.
3
CANDOMBLÉ
Candomblé
, a popular Afro-Brazilian blend of Christian and African religious belief, permeates
Salvador. Its followers often dress in white and worship together in ecstatic dance rituals
accompanied by lots of drumming and singing, or otherwise communicate with and make
offerings to the Orixás spirits - personal protectors, guides and go-betweens for people and
their creator-god Olorum.
A candomblé cult house, or
terreiro
, is headed by a
mãe do santo
(literally “holy mother”) or
pai
do santo
(“holy father'”), who directs the operations of dozens of novices and initiates. The usual
objective is to persuade the
spirits
to descend into the bodies of worshippers, which is achieved
by
sacrifices
(animals are killed outside public view and usually during the day), offerings of
food and drink, and above all by drumming, dancing and the invocations of the
mãe
or
pai do
santo
. In a central dance area, devotees dance for hours to induce the trance that allows the
spirits to enter them. Each deity has its own songs, animals, colours, qualities, powers and holy
day; there are different types of candomblé, as well as other related Afro-Brazilian religions like
umbanda
.
If you go to a
terreiro
, there are certain
rules
you must observe. A
terreiro
should be respected
and treated like the church it is. Clothes should be smart and modest: long trousers and a clean
shirt for men, a non-revealing blouse and trousers or long skirt for women. The dancing area is a
sacred space and no matter how infectious you find the rhythms you should do no more than
stand or sit around its edges. Don't take photographs without asking permission from the
mãe
or
pai do santo
first, or you will give offence. You may find people coming round offering
drinks
from
jars, or items of
food
: it's impolite to refuse, but watch what everyone else does first - sometimes
food is not for eating but for throwing over dancers, and the story of the gringos who ate the
popcorn intended as a sacred offering is guaranteed to bring a smile to any Brazilian face.
To make contact with candomblé practitioners and attend a session, either book through a
tour operator or approach a
terreiro
directly. It's important to call and check times, dates and
terms of access or ask the tourist information of
ce in the Pelourinho (see p.218) for help in
booking. Below is a list of
terreiros
(none is especially close to the
centro histórico
, so take a taxi
and arrange for it to wait):
Axé Opo Afonja
Rua Direita de São Goncalo do Retiro 557 (
T
71 3384 5229).
Terreiro do Oxum
Rua Helio Machado 108, Bairro Bocado Rio (
T
71 3232 1460).
Terreiro de Oxossi
Rua 6 de Janeiro 29 (by entrance to Escolinha Rosa Vermelho), Bairro Sete
de Abril (
T
71 3393 1168).
