Bahia - The Rough Guide to Brazil - page 208

Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco
Largo do Cruzeiro de São Francisco • Mon-Fri 9am-5pm • R$5
Next door to the Igreja de São Francisco is the smaller Igreja da Ordem Terceira de
São Francisco , completed in 1703. Its sandstone facade is even more ostentatious,
covered with a wild profusion of saints, virgins, angels and abstract patterns.
Remarkably, this churrigueresco facade was hidden for 150 years, until in 1936 a
painter knocked off a chunk of plaster by mistake and revealed the original frontage,
Brazil's only example of high-relief facade carved in ashlar (square-cut stones). It
took nine years of careful chipping before the facade was returned to its original
glory, and today the whole church is a strong contender for the most beautiful
single building in the city. Its reliquary , or ossuário , is extraordinary; the entire room
is redecorated in 1940s Art Deco style, and is one of the most unusual examples
you're ever likely to come across.

Pelourinho
Heading down the narrow Rua Alfredo de Brito and emerging onto the steep, cobbled
Largo do Pelourinho is one of the most romantic sights in Brazil, much as it was during
the eighteenth century. The area of Cidade Alta around the square is known simply as
the Pelourinho , or just Pelô (named after the whipping post that once stood in the
plaza), famed for its gorgeous architecture, shops, music, dining and nightlife.

3

CAPOEIRA
Capoeira began in Angola as a ritual fight to gain the nuptial rights of women when they
reached puberty; since then it has evolved into a graceful semi-balletic art form somewhere
between fighting and dancing. It did so because African slaves were denied the right to
practise their ritual fighting, and so disguised or changed it into the singing and dancing form
seen today. Displays of capoeira - often accompanied by the characteristic rhythmic twang of
the berimbau - usually take the form of a pair of dancers/fighters leaping and whirling in
stylized “combat”.
The capoeiristas normally create a roda , a circle of spectators including drummers, berimbaus ,
singing and clapping. The basic method of moving around the roda is the ginga , a standing,
stepping motion that includes the role (rolling) and au (cartwheeling) movements, respectively.
The players then attack each other and defend themselves using these basic methods, along
with a range of kicks such as the spinning armada . To avoid the kicks, players fall into various
stances like the queda de tres , a crouching position with one arm raised to defend the head.
Only the feet, hands and head of the players should touch the floor during the game.
There are regular displays - largely for the benefit of tourists but interesting nevertheless -
on Terreiro de Jesus and near the entrances to the Mercado Modelo in Cidade Baixa, where
contributions from onlookers are expected. You'll find the best capoeira, however, in the
academias de capoeira , organized schools with classes that anyone can watch, free of charge
(though donations are suggested). The oldest and most famous school, the Associação de
Capoeira Mestre Bimba, named after the man who popularized capoeira in Salvador in the
1920s, is still the best. Saturday afternoon is the best time to visit a school.
CAPOEIRA SCHOOLS
Associação Brasileira de Capoeira Angola Rua
Gregório de Matos 38 T 71 9266 7881. Runs
biweekly classes (call to confirm times).
Associação de Capoeira Mestre Bimba Rua das
Laranjeiras 1 (also known as Rua Francisco Muniz
Barreto), Pelourinho T 71 3322 0639, W capoeira
mestrebimba.com.br. Visitors are encouraged to bring
bottled water for the dancers, and to donate R$3 to take
photographs. Named after legendary pioneer of

“Capoeira Regional”, Mestre Bimba (1899-1974). Visitors
welcome Tues & Fri 7-8pm; classes Mon-Fri
9am-noon, Sat 10am-noon & 2-8pm.
Capoeira Angola Irmões Gêmeos e Metre Curió
Rua Gregório de Matos 9 (upstairs), Pelourinho
T 71 3321 0396, E [e-mail].
Established by the great Mestre Curió in 1982; Curió was
a student of legendary Mestre Pastinha (1889-1981),
spiritual godfather of “Capoeira Angola”. Call for times.