Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Bahia
With over 1000km of coconut-fringed beaches and the most agreeable
climate in the region - hot and sunny, but not as blistering as elsewhere -
Bahia (“bai-ee-a”) has long been one of the country's most popular
destinations for foreign visitors. Constituting over a third of Northeast Brazil,
it sits to the south of the region's other states but stands apart, primarily
because of the strength of its Afro-Brazilian culture. This is especially true in
the capital Salvador, where the legacy of slavery has influenced everything
from music and capoeira to dialect, festivals, candomblé and the local cuisine.
3
At the state's heart are the
Chapada Diamantina Mountains
, offering breathtaking
trekking and climbing opportunities, while a string of inland colonial towns, including
Cachoeira
, lies within striking distance of Salvador. Further south lies
Ilhéus
,
hometown of writer Jorge Amado, and the thriving beach resort of
Porto Seguro
,
whose early settlement pre-dates even Salvador's. All along the coast are tiny, off-the-
beaten-path villages and towns with spectacular beaches and a languid, laidback
lifestyle. Beyond the coastline, the Bahian
sertão
is massive, a desert-like land that
supports some fascinating towns such as the ex-mining base of
Lençóis
.
Exploring the state is easy enough by
bus
, though you'll have a lot more freedom
renting a
car
, especially when it comes to exploring the coast. Enclaves such as Sítio
do Conde and Mangue Seco north of Salvador, and Barra Grande and Caraíva to the
south offer the prospect of tranquil swathes of sand and simple village life.
Salvador and around
High above the enormous bay of Todos os Santos (All Saints),
SALVADOR
has an
electric feel from the moment you arrive. This is the great cultural and historical centre
of Brazil, where Afro-Brazilian heritage is strongest and where capoeira, candomblé and
samba de roda
were created. he
centro histórico
is a magical place, a melange of narrow
cobbled streets, peeling purple walls, grand Baroque churches, kids kicking footballs,
rastas, locals sipping bottled beer on plastic chairs, the wafting aroma of herbs and the
almost constant beating of drums, especially as the sun sets. Beyond the old town
Salvador is a vast, sprawling city, with a vibrant beach life, modern skyscrapers and
plenty of
favelas
. The divide between the rich and poor is as big here as anywhere else
in Brazil, but security has improved a lot in recent years.
Personal safety in Salvador
p.204
Futebol Salvador
p.205
Going up and down from the
old town
p.206
The city of writers and musicians
p.210
Capoeira
p.211
Candomblé
p.213
Ice cream break
p.214
Bonfim festivals
p.215
The Salvador Bus
p.218
Acarajé: five of the best
p.221
Comida baiana
p.222
Carnaval
p.223
Gay Salvador
p.224
Baía de Todos os Santos boat tours
p.225
Candomblé in Cachoeira
p.226
Woodcarvers of Cachoeira
p.227
The Litoral Verde: on the road
to Recife
p.230
On the road to Espírito Santo
p.241
The tragic history of Canudos
p.244
Chapada Diamantina: the highlights
p.245
