Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos
Largo do Rosário • Open sporadically Tues-Sat (not lunchtimes); Sun 7am-8pm for Mass and special occasions • R$2
The church at the bottom of Rua do Rosário,
Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos
Pretos
, has a tree growing in front of it; look closely and you can see a large distorted
wooden cross embedded in the trunk and lower branches, the “Arvore da Cruz”. The
story behind this reads like something from Gabriel García Márquez, but did really
happen. The year the old Sé church was knocked down, in 1932, the padre of
Rosário planted a wooden cross outside his church to commemorate the chapel old
Diamantina had originally been built around. A fig tree sprouted up around it so
that at first the cross seemed to flower - there's a photo of it at this stage in the
Museu do Diamante - and eventually, rather than knocking it down, the tree grew
up around the cross and ended up absorbing it (other stories claim this is where a
wrongly executed slave was buried). The church itself was built from 1728-31 to
serve Diamantina's slave population and features a marvellous Baroque altar and a
simple, yet stunning, painted ceiling.
2
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
DIAMANTINA
By bus
Unless approaching by car, by far the easiest way to
get to Diamantina is on one of the six buses each day from
Belo Horizonte, although there is also a daily bus from São
Paulo. Although the rodoviária is not far from the centre of
town, it's on a steep hill, and the only way back to it once in
the centre is by taxi (around R$12), unless you have the legs
and lungs of a mountain goat.
Destinations
Belo Horizonte (6-7 daily; 5hr); São Paulo
(1 daily; 13-14hr); Serro (2 daily; 2.5hr).
INFORMATION
Tourist information
Praça Antônio Eulálio 53 (Mon-Sat
9am-6pm, Sun 9am-2pm;
T
38 3531 9532,
W
diamantina.mg.gov.br). You're unlikely to find anyone
who speaks English, but the staff can point you towards
hotels and offer advice on excursions.
ACCOMMODATION
Diamantina Hostel
Rua do Bicame 988
T
38 3531
5021,
W
diamantinahostel.com.br.
This HI hostel is
spotless and has a great view, yet the rooms are dark and
not especially inviting. It's a 15min (uphill) walk from town
and 10min f
rom t
he rodoviá
ria. La
undry services but no
wi-fi. Dorms
R$40
, members
R$35
Pousada do Garimpo
Av da Saudade 265
T
38 3531
1044,
W
pousadadogarimpo.com.br.
A 10min walk
from the centre on the western continuation of Rua
Direita, this is the largest and most comfortable place to
stay in to
wn; it's
friendly, well equipped and has a pool.
Free wi-fi.
R$260
Pouso da Chica
Rua Macau de Cima 115
T
38 3531
6190,
W
pousodachica.com.br.
A beautifully restored
eighteenth-century property with simple guest rooms in
both the historic main house and in newer outbuildings
decorat
ed wit
h locally made rustic furniture and
textiles.
R$240
★
Relínquias do Tempo
Rua Macau de Baixo 104
T
38 3531 1627,
W
pousadareliquiasdotempo.com.br.
Located in a wonderfully converted nineteenth-century
home just up from the cathedral, this simple but delightful
pousada
is filled with rustic period furnishings a
nd deco
rated
with handicrafts from the Jequitinhonha valley.
R$210
★
Tijuco
Rua Macau do Meio 211
T
38 3531 1022,
W
hoteltijuco.com.br.
This 1951 Oscar Niemeyer creation
has fairly spartan but perfectly adequate rooms. It's worth
paying for one of the slightly more expensive “
luxo
” rooms,
which are larger and brighter and h
ave bal
conies offering
wonderful views across Diamantina.
R$150
POUSADA RURAL RECANTO DO VALE
Pousada Rural Recanto do Vale
23km south of
Diamantina (beyond the Gruta do Salitre)
T
31
3271 0200,
W
pousadarecantodovale.com.
A rustic
alternative to Diamantina's hotels, the
Pousada Rural
Recanto do Vale
is a very simple working
fazenda
in a
lush valley. The nineteenth-century
casa grande
has
been turned into an inn, providing an opportunity to
experience everyday life well off the beaten track. While
pretty basic, the rooms are perfectly comfortable and
the simple meals (entirely from the
fazenda
's produce)
are delicious. Horse riding can be arrange
d and
there
are easy walks to natural swimming spots.
R$180
